strange wiring issue, alarm, 2010 edge

Agree 100% about that SJB location.  Near impossible to get at.   

The last Edge I did was a 2008.  Think I only managed to grab a few wires at the SJB.  Spent some time with a DMM in the DKP locating and verifying the rest.  There were quite a few Violet/White wires in the DKP...

The Ford Edge PATS connector info from iDatalink is correct :

        RX Pin / Color       TX Pin / ColorEdge 07-10 3 Violet/Gray         4 Yellow/Orange

You must have two working, non-clone, keys to program the module and timing between steps is important.

Soldering is fun!

kreg357 wrote: Agree 100% about that SJB location.  Near impossible to get at.     The last Edge I did was a 2008.  Think I only managed to grab a few wires at the SJB.  Spent some time with a DMM in the DKP locating and verifying the rest.  There were quite a few Violet/White wires in the DKP... The Ford Edge PATS connector info from iDatalink is correct :     RX Pin / Color       TX Pin / Color Edge 07-10 3 Violet/Gray        4 Yellow/Orange You must have two working, non-clone, keys to program the module and timing between steps is important.

Thanks for the info. I think my install requires 4 connections at the C harness and a one or two on the D connector. Those 2 connectors are the hardest to get at...but I guss I'll have to make it happen lol. If I used a regular ground connection for the e-brake sense wire could that contribute to the flashing red light? I have two keys, but I can not complete the set up process....should I take it to a shop and see if they can reprogram it? When I got it the usb cable was not included.

The EBrake connection should have nothing to do with the bypass programming.   There aren't too many wires / connections for the bypass.  Think I would go

totally W2W, connecting FLCAN Red +12V to the CA6552 heavy Red or RED / White wire,  the Black wire to the CA6552 Black ground wire, the Blue/White GWR wire to the CA6552 Blue/Black Ignition 3 (-) wire, the FLCAN Pink wire to the CA6552 heavy Pink Ignition wire, the ORANGE / Black RX wire to the Edges Violet/Gray wireand the FLCAN's Gray/Red TX wire to the Edges' Yellow/Orange TX wire.  Next do the Factory Reset again, select the Standard Installation Mode ( two blinks ) andlock it in, then do the programming to the Edge with the ignition keys.  Sometimes, I have even done the Ignition wire jumper method at Step 10.  If the programmingfails, which step did not go right?

Even if you had the ADS USB cable you would need to be registered as a dealer to re-flash the bypass module.  If the above fails, you can try to find a local dealer

that will re-flash the module and tell you the correct install guide number to download and use.

Soldering is fun!

kreg357 wrote: The EBrake connection should have nothing to do with the bypass programming.   There aren't too many wires / connections for the bypass.  Think I would go totally W2W, connecting FLCAN Red +12V to the CA6552 heavy Red or RED / White wire,  the Black wire to the CA6552 Black ground wire, the Blue/White GWR wire to the CA6552 Blue/Black Ignition 3 (-) wire, the FLCAN Pink wire to the CA6552 heavy Pink Ignition wire, the ORANGE / Black RX wire to the Edges Violet/Gray wire and the FLCAN's Gray/Red TX wire to the Edges' Yellow/Orange TX wire.  Next do the Factory Reset again, select the Standard Installation Mode ( two blinks ) and lock it in, then do the programming to the Edge with the ignition keys.  Sometimes, I have even done the Ignition wire jumper method at Step 10.  If the programming fails, which step did not go right? Even if you had the ADS USB cable you would need to be registered as a dealer to re-flash the bypass module.  If the above fails, you can try to find a local dealer that will re-flash the module and tell you the correct install guide number to download and use.

I'll try to do it this way this coming weekend. On the start harness I didn't see any big/thick wires. They were really small which sort of surprised me. When I installed it into the Mazda5 I had no issues using data mode.

New switch arrived today. Mi disconnected the parking brake output wire from the harness already, somI popped in the new switch, reconnected the battery and...the problem still exists. I noticed something else though...when I went to use the door lock/unlock the doors would lock, but would not unlock. Could the factory arm/disarm wires have something to do with my problem? When I connected the alarm brain over the weekend the alarm would not lock or unlock the doors, so I don't think it's an issue with the lock/unlock wires. When I did my splicing I did use quick splice connectors, I planned on not using those when I made my 2nd attempt this weekend. Could anything ales be causing my issue? The alarm brain isn't connected, so I doubt it's the wiring at this point, but I could be wrong.

I believe I have all of my issues licked. I found out what my main problem was. After I disconnected all alarm wires, replaced the switch and the problem remain I double checked my connections and it turned out that the 'C' connector on the SJB was not all the way in. Once I corrected that the issue I had went away. Now I have everything pretty much sorted out and reconnected, BUT my parking lights don't flash. At first I made the connection at the switch, but when I saw it didn't work I made the connection at the SJB. It still doesn't work. I hear the noise that the turning signal makes when it blinks, but the lights don't flash. I used a +12v connection on the input and connected the parking light + wire on the harness to the parking light output on the alarm harness. Has anyone installed an alarm in a Ford Edge before? If so do the lights use a positive or negative connection?

Purlpe/white in the DKP positive trigger Did you test your output to make sure it still works ? If i Can't Install it    I Don't need it   Joe

chev104275 wrote: Purlpe/white in the DKP positive trigger Did you test your output to make sure it still works ?

I didn't use the DKP location, I tapped into the connection on the SJB & the actual switch and neither worked. I can hear the sound that the blinkers would make, the lights just dont flash. I haven't metered the output though.

Did you test the wires at the SJB and the switch to show +12volts with the parking lights on? If not, test the factory wire and the output to make sure a) you have the correct wire at the SJB / switch and b) you are getting the proper output from the module.Kenny

Owner / Technician

KKD Garage LLC

Albany, NY 12205

offroadzj wrote: Did you test the wires at the SJB and the switch to show +12volts with the parking lights on? If not, test the factory wire and the output to make sure a) you have the correct wire at the SJB / switch and b) you are getting the proper output from the module.

I didn't test at either location, I just went by the diagram. If I turn on the parking lights they work & if the alarm tries to activate them I hear the usual sound of turning lights flickering, I just don't see any flickering lights. The alarm parking light input and the other two +12v wires are all connected to the same line, so I know the +12v should be good.Does a 2010 Edge need negative polarity to get the parking lights to work?