strange wiring issue, alarm, 2010 edge

That is exactly why you ALWAYS test the wires. Never only go by a diagram. There could be 3 or 4 or more wires of the same color in a particular harness and by just connecting it, you can cause a lot of damage to your vehicle (including frying the ECU). ALWAYS test every wire before making any connections. "Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. " With that said, the clicking you are hearing could just be the alarm relay. Physically connect a meter to the parking light output and make sure that the wire shows 12v when the lights should be flashing. Then put the alarm onto the factory wire you wish to use and make sure that wire shows 12v when you turn the parking lights on. This will also tell you if it is 12v + or ground. Here is what my wiring says for that car: Parking Lights+      PURPLE / white      +      driver kick or SJB, black 32 pin plug (D), pin 20       Parking Lights-      gray  -      headlight switch or SJB, black 52 pin plug (B), pin 31      But again, TEST FIRST!Kenny

Owner / Technician

KKD Garage LLC

Albany, NY 12205

Of all the automakers Ford more than anyone else indulge in multiple wires with the same colour, e.g. Euro Mondeos (Edge) and Focii, BLACK/ blue being a favourite, also the earlier Transit Connect, right hand floor loom, 3 x BLACK/ blue, ONE of them being the all door trigger. OP two words from my signature, the first one to avoid is "ASSUME". The second to use is "TEST". Might have saved you a lot of grief, time and $$$$.

Possibly a non-issue but at this point we should not overlook anything.

If you are using the Edge's (+) Parking Light Violet/White wire, did you configure the CA6552 for

positive Parking Light output?

CA6552 Parking Light Outputs from the install guide :

1 WHITE/ RED PARKING LIGHT INPUT

2 WHITE PARKING LIGHT OUTPUT

Locate the parking light output wire at the vehicle’s light switch.

Verification: This wire registers positive voltage when the parking lights are

turned on.

Positive switching Parking Lights:

Connect the WHITE/ RED wire to a 15 Amp max fused battery source.

Connect the WHITE wire to the parking light output wire.

Negative switching Parking Lights:

Connect the WHITE/ RED wire to a good chassis ground.

Connect the WHITE wire to the parking light output wire.

Test with DMM to make sure the CA6552 is actually outputting a +12V signal on that White wire ( maybe the fuse blew ).

Soldering is fun!

Thanks guys. I'll dig out my multimeter and test. Also, I did wire the CA6552 for positive output mode. What mode should the meter be in to test?

If you are looking for a (+) Parking Light wire, set the DMM to 20V DC.  Connect the Black test leadto a good chassis ground.  Test the DMM setup by touching the Red test lead to a known (+) wire.  Youcan use fuses in the fuse box, the center contact in the cigarette lighter ( with the ignition key inthe on position ) or go to the +12V constant wire(s) at the ignition switch connector.  Onceyou are satisfied that the DMM is set and connected to ground properly, move the Red test lead to thesuspect wire.  In this case it will be a Violet/White wire in the Drivers Kick Panel or coming off the SJB, Plug D.  With the Head Light switch in the OFF position, the meter should read 0 volts.  When you move the Headlight switch to the Parking Light position the DMM should read 12 volts ( and the Parking Lights should come on ).Soldering is fun!

I forgot to mention...I couldn't find the factory alarm arm/disarm wire. Could that be it? The truck has keyless entry, but I don't believe it has an alarm.

My cheapo meter from Harbor Freight reads 0.01 no matter if its connected to the constant hot wire and ground or if the leads are connected to nothing....it does have two connection points for the hot lead (10ADC or V ohm sign mA). I have it connected to 10ADC and the switch turned to 20 in the DCV section, is that correct?

Ok I think I'm dealing with a gremlin or something really weird.....I got my meter working. I tested positive voltage when turning on parking lights with the switch AND when I press the lock/unlock on the remote, but the lights still won't flash. Also the clicking noise I heard is coming from the alarm brain, not the buzzer on the car like someone mentioned earlier.

To make matters worse the interior lights flash (instrument cluster, HVAC, radio, etc) when triggering the alarm, but the lights still do not flash.

As you figured out on the DMM, the Red lead is connected into the "Volt ohm diode" position for all testing

except actual DC current testing ( 10A DC position).

If I understand you correctly, the Violet/White wire you connected the DMM Red lead to does give the correct

+12V response when you turn the Headlight switch to the Parking Light position.  The fact that it also givesa +12V reading when you press Lock or Unlock on the CA6552's FOB's is because the CA6552's Parking LightWhite output wire is connected to the Violet/White wire and suppling that voltage/signal. 

The clicking noise from the CA6552 is its' internal relays, probably the Parking Light relay in this case.

A few questions.

Do all of the functions on the Edge work normally?  The parking Lights work as they should via the

Headlight switch.  The door locks work normally via the door control buttons and the Factory FOB. Etc...You don't want to be chasing your tail thinking the problem is the CA6552 install when it's a vehicleproblem.  If there are any issues, remove the CA6552 completely and see if they still exist.  Make the vehicle work 100% before attempting the R/S install.

While it is a pain ( a lot of typing ), listing all of your wiring from the CA6552 harnesses to the vehicle

connection point ( wire name, color, location ) would help.

While the DMM testing previously described is used for (+) wires, a slightly different method is used to

test / identify (-) wires ( like the door lock, unlock, horn, door triggers, etc ).  Basically, the testleads are reversed.  The Red lead will connect to a know +12V constant source and the Black test lead willbe used to probe / test the suspect wire.  Once again the DMM will show +12V when the suspect wires' signalis present.  ( It is showing +12V, not the negative signal, because it sees +12V when the suspect wire goesto ground (-) and completes the circuit. )  If you connect the DMM this way and test the CA6552s' Lock output, it will show +12V for the brief 0.8 second output duration.

Soldering is fun!