1999 dodge ram door locks

Good day everyone, as you can see first post, but i have looked for weeks not to find correct information and just want to verify something. I have a 1999 Dodge ram 1500 5.2L. I installed a remote/alarm and i am having troubles with my door locks, from what ive been reading alot of people do. And it seems, there is alot of false information out there. Anyways, i have gone through 2 different wiring diagrams, both with 2 relays and i blew the fuse for my door locks many times. Can someone post the CORRECT wiring diagram for me to follow? I did search and THINK i now have the right one, but i really want to be sure that the next time i wire this up i don't blow any more fuses and hopefully i can put my truck back together. ps. i think that the correct one is the DODGE RAM FULL SIZE 3/5 WIRE DOOR LOCK SYSTEM. am i correct? thanks alot for the assistance.

If the 99 Ram came with keyless from the factory it would have a positive pulse for lock and a 5-wire for unlock. If it did not come with factory keyless it is 5-wire for both. Here is a diagram for the positive pulse door locks: link Here is a diagram for the 5-wire door locks: link If you are blowing a fuse I would have to think you have it wired incorrectly.Installer, IT support, and FFL. I need less hobbies.

i keep forgetting to mention that it does not have factory keyless, just power door lock/unlock. That is odd, i followed that diagram to a T and it blew fuses, i will get new relays and retry.

Use the 5-wire door locks diagram without factory keyless.Be careful whose advice you buy, but be patient with those who supply it.

now heres a question, Doing the proper 5 wire diagram, if i did NOT have the +12V connected, would this cause an issue?

fingerbang wrote: now heres a question, Doing the proper 5 wire diagram, if i did NOT have the +12V connected, would this cause an issue?

Yes, the issue would be the locks would not operate from the remote. The likely problem you are having is that you reversed 87a and 30. How are you determining "motor" vs. "switch" side?

JWorm wrote: fingerbang wrote: now heres a question, Doing the proper 5 wire diagram, if i did NOT have the +12V connected, would this cause an issue? Yes, the issue would be the locks would not operate from the remote. The likely problem you are having is that you reversed 87a and 30. How are you determining "motor" vs. "switch" side?

with the 2 wires (lock/unlock) cut, i ground 1 end of my meter and the other goes to 1 wire of the 2 pairs, if there is +12v then that is the switch side, and the other is motor, i then repeat for the other set of wires.

fingerbang wrote: with the 2 wires (lock/unlock) cut, i ground 1 end of my meter and the other goes to 1 wire of the 2 pairs, if there is +12v then that is the switch side, and the other is motor, i then repeat for the other set of wires.

correct?

Are you the original owner of the vehicle? Are you certain that it didn't have the keyless entry option from the factory? At any rate to make sure, reconnect one of the motor wires and see if the locks work, try both lock and unlock. If it does either with only 1 wire disconnected then isn't 5 wire reverse polarity.Certified Security Specialist

Always check info with a digital multimeter.

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auex wrote: Are you the original owner of the vehicle? Are you certain that it didn't have the keyless entry option from the factory? At any rate to make sure, reconnect one of the motor wires and see if the locks work, try both lock and unlock. If it does either with only 1 wire disconnected then isn't 5 wire reverse polarity.

i am the second owner, i did get my build sheet and it did not show factory keyless on it, but i will try what you say. So, if i get this straight. leave 1 set of wires connected, and one set split. if EITHER lock or unlock WORK then i HAVE factory keyless? am i reading this correct?