2007 nissan altima remote start

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KarTuneMan

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Joined: December 14, 2004

Location: Isle Of Man

Posted: January 30, 2008 at 6:15 PM / IP Logged

tedmond wrote:

the xko7 will do the transponder bypass. and the bypass can be done through the can bus system. As for quality, the bypasskits are solid units and very dependable. As for install time, the new 07 altima uses the push button, so wiring and hunting for your wires will be about 1 - 2 hours, depending on how efficiant you work. On a new car, i suggest you take your time with it.

I don't know about anybody else....but I would REALLY like to watch a guy do this car in 1 ta 2 hours. 2007 nissan altima remote start - Page 2 -- posted image.

extreme1

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Joined: February 12, 2003

Location: Canada

Posted: January 30, 2008 at 11:27 PM / IP Logged

my first one was 2 hour 15 minutes, second one was 1:45

I only use idatalink ads-al-ca, makes this car EASY to do.

Shaughn Murley

Install Manager, Dealer Services

Visions Electronics

Red Deer, Alberta

tedmond

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Joined: January 06, 2007

Location: Ontario, Canada

Posted: January 31, 2008 at 6:51 AM / IP Logged

2 hours for hunting/probing wires. i wish i could get a car out of the bay that quick ahah

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Copper - Posts: 207

Joined: January 13, 2003

Location: Massachusetts, United States

Posted: January 31, 2008 at 4:59 PM / IP Logged

It's not the security light, on right side of dash, that stays on. That is bypassed with the XK07 module. It is the "key" light on left side of dash. I think it is probably detecting 2 transponders in the car & senses something wrong. It doesn't cause any problems, so it's not a serious issue. The reason is took me all day is because I took my time & was very careful & I soldered all my wires. I didn't rush. The next one will go smoother & quicker. Maybe I'll try the idatalink next time.

Good Enough Isn't!

johnmax

Copper - Posts: 131

Joined: November 15, 2003

Posted: January 31, 2008 at 8:45 PM / IP Logged

extreme1 wrote:

my first one was 2 hour 15 minutes, second one was 1:45

I only use idatalink ads-al-ca, makes this car EASY to do.

Yeah same here. Kartuneman you are welcome to come on by and watch me. 2007 nissan altima remote start - Page 2 -- posted image.

Just make sure you bring a case of brew with ya. 2007 nissan altima remote start - Page 2 -- posted image.

mannyd85

Member - Posts: 9

Joined: November 18, 2007

Location: Illinois, United States

Posted: February 02, 2008 at 2:02 PM / IP Logged

I hated this car I had to run so many wires to the fuse box under the hood, it was retarded. It worked flawlessly the first time but took forever to do.

extreme1

Silver - Posts: 1,070

Joined: February 12, 2003

Location: Canada

Posted: February 02, 2008 at 2:48 PM / IP Logged

I ran zero wires to the underhood fusebox and wired a relay into 4 wires there.

Shaughn Murley

Install Manager, Dealer Services

Visions Electronics

Red Deer, Alberta

johnmax

Copper - Posts: 131

Joined: November 15, 2003

Posted: February 06, 2008 at 7:03 PM / IP Logged

I got a call today that our remote start fried a BCM. I did it the Idatalink way. The dealer's RS guy says he doesnt do it that way because of this possibility, and the diodes you put in there don't always protect the BCM. He does it the XK07 way, kind of. Anyone else have this issue? Looks Like I'm gonna have to do them the harder way..... 2007 nissan altima remote start - Page 2 -- posted image.

2007 nissan altima remote start - Page 2 -- posted image.

extreme1

Silver - Posts: 1,070

Joined: February 12, 2003

Location: Canada

Posted: February 06, 2008 at 8:07 PM / IP Logged

unless something was wired wrong there's pretty much no chance that you could fry the BCM.

I've done 3 of these personally and know of dozens out there done with ADS-ALCA's with never a problem.

Shaughn Murley

Install Manager, Dealer Services

Visions Electronics

Red Deer, Alberta

johnmax

Copper - Posts: 131

Joined: November 15, 2003

Posted: February 07, 2008 at 7:46 PM / IP Logged

Their guy said that the + ignition going into the bcm sent too much current and fried it. He said that the circuit inside the bcm is not meant to handle alot of current. Also that the diodes you put inline on those ignition wires don't always block the way they should- he uses relays on those wires. He also said he has seen a few done the Idatalink way and they fried the same thing. I've done a few and this is the only problem one so far. Not a rookie here (16 years) so I am a little concerned.

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