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Setting Up Front Imaging


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tubbs04 
Copper - Posts: 212
Copper spacespace
Joined: March 31, 2007
Location: United States
Posted: May 10, 2008 at 11:31 AM / IP Logged  

I'm looking at this for a sub amp. what do you think?

http://www.online/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?Productid=15792

...don't crush the weasel...
mcben789 
Copper - Posts: 171
Copper spacespace
Joined: October 01, 2007
Location: Mississippi, United States
Posted: May 11, 2008 at 7:18 PM / IP Logged  
Link's bad.
Sasquatch...
We know your legend's real...
tubbs04 
Copper - Posts: 212
Copper spacespace
Joined: March 31, 2007
Location: United States
Posted: May 12, 2008 at 12:29 PM / IP Logged  

Sorry.... It's the TRA800.2 I'm looking at.

http://www.soundstream.com/manuals/2006/AMP/TARANTULA%20AMP%20Manual.pdf

...don't crush the weasel...
tubbs04 
Copper - Posts: 212
Copper spacespace
Joined: March 31, 2007
Location: United States
Posted: May 14, 2008 at 5:44 PM / IP Logged  

heres an update on the build. Got the pods wrapped and wet out... tomorrow comes the glass....

Setting Up Front Imaging - Page 9 -- posted image.

They're almost there....

...don't crush the weasel...
jmelton86 
Gold - Posts: 1,228
Gold spacespace
Joined: February 07, 2007
Location: South Carolina, United States
Posted: May 14, 2008 at 6:25 PM / IP Logged  

That looks excellent! Great work so far! You're working with the right guy, you know. He can work around your budget really well.

You are planning on a good amount of deadening or damping, aren't you?

Dampening wouldn't help you here...Setting Up Front Imaging - Page 9 -- posted image.

2013 Kia Rio -90a alternator
DDX470HD GTO14001 GTO1014D (x3)
Big3 in 1/0G
1/0G to GTO14001
tubbs04 
Copper - Posts: 212
Copper spacespace
Joined: March 31, 2007
Location: United States
Posted: May 14, 2008 at 9:30 PM / IP Logged  

I'm going to stuff the sealed section of the pod a little just to cut down on ringing... I'm still going to do some damping on the doors b/c the 6.5 will be run IB.

Ya, Dave's really helped me out. He deffinetly knows his doodie! and you're right about the buget thing.... I haven't used half of it so far and It's nearing install time.. I'm really excited about it all!

...don't crush the weasel...
haemphyst 
Platinum - Posts: 5,054
Platinum spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Audio and Video. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 19, 2003
Location: Michigan, Bouvet Island
Posted: May 15, 2008 at 10:42 AM / IP Logged  
tubbs04 wrote:
hey dave! I opened up this 4xs and it says the crossover is at 150, the front PFM filter has 90hz written on it, the rear/2 ch PFM filter has 30hz written on it, and the subwoofer is at 70.
Are these okay??
I can't find anything on the 'net regarding the actual settings on that crossover. I can BUY a manual from Audiocontrol, for $11.00, but I'm not gonna... Setting Up Front Imaging - Page 9 -- posted image.
I'd like to see (...and I am assuming that you are dedicating the 4xs to the doors) the PFM set to the same frequency as your sub (To be determined, but 90Hz seems a little bit too high, to me. Aim closer to the 50 to 65Hz range) around 250 to 300 for the mid-bass/mid transition, and 3500-4000 for the mid/tweeter transition.
It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."
tubbs04 
Copper - Posts: 212
Copper spacespace
Joined: March 31, 2007
Location: United States
Posted: May 15, 2008 at 1:37 PM / IP Logged  
so how do I change it from 90 hz to the 50-65hz range? is there another module I can order?
...don't crush the weasel...
tubbs04 
Copper - Posts: 212
Copper spacespace
Joined: March 31, 2007
Location: United States
Posted: May 15, 2008 at 1:45 PM / IP Logged  

I printed off a 4XS manual and did some reading. The modules are preset, but they say they can be programed. Is this something I can do or do I need to find someone to do this for me??? I'm a little lost on this one...

the manual also stated that there are two 3.5kHz, a 90Hz programmable crossover module, a one 33Hz programmable Frequency Match module, and of course the 90hz sub.

...don't crush the weasel...
haemphyst 
Platinum - Posts: 5,054
Platinum spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Audio and Video. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 19, 2003
Location: Michigan, Bouvet Island
Posted: May 15, 2008 at 3:10 PM / IP Logged  
I was able to find the manual online as well... Using 14 pin DIP headers, you can build any frequency module you want. Headers can be had all day long for 50 cents a piece, and resistors are a dime a dozen, almost literally - even 5%-ers.
To figure the resistor value, divide 7200 by the desired frequency, and this will give you the value for the needed resistor.
7200 / 60 = 12.5K ohms (This is the PFM)
7200 / 250 = 28.8K ohms (30K is more available, and would be 300Hz)
7200 / 3500 = 2.05K ohms (2K is FAR more available, and close enough...) You already HAVE these, or should still have them... Saves you the work!
The modules are CAKE to build. You simply solder the resistors ACROSS the DIP header, 6 each, leaving the middle pair of pins open.
2 headers, 12 resistors, and 10 minutes with a soldering iron, you're done! BTW, if you cannot find an exact resistor value, divide 7200 by the AVAILABLE value, and this will tell you the frequency you will achieve.
Example: 7200 / 2000 (2K ohms) = 3600Hz
Because no audio signal actually travels in or through these resistors, Vishay or some other high-dollar exotica isn't necessary, but the tighter you can get, TOLERANCE-wise, the better off you're going to be. I recommend 5% or better. (Resistors come in 20%, 10%, 5%, 2.5%, 1%, and precision. The lower the number, the tighter the tolerance, and the more expensive they will be.) Carbon pile (less expensive, more available, and generally can be higher precision) or wire-wound, 1/4 watt, is all you need.
Industry standards resistor decades. That chart will tell you EXACTLY what resistors you will be able to lay hands upon... Additional information, for those interested.
(I am on lunch, sitting in my car... I HOPE you end up with (at least CLOSE to) what I have, or at a minimum, something that you will be happy with. Gawd, I love the sound of my stereo... I feel like Rick Davies is standing right in front of me.)
It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."
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