remote start, 1994 mazda rx7

1. the light flash is usaully at fuse or light switch and controls the parking light flash when you press the "lock unlock buttond" usually this is positve but confirm with a DMM. to switchthe polarity of the alrm output oft his wire use the jumper or other provision IAW the manual.

2.usually a type of switch for emrgency shut doen of remote start in case brake switch malfunctions I believe . on some DEI's and all ungo's this would usually be a black and white wire about 18ga or so \9bot the one on the main harness for a different purpose) dont quote on that though. this is some times the "on/off switch wire"

3 this wire activates the interior wire via the provision in the car sometimes this conected the the door trigge. I dont think it pertains to this vehicle but its used to activate the map light when you activate remote start or open th e car.

4 no its negative trigger and should be strong enough to set off factory relay careful though your cuttting aroud the CPU or the airbag either way you go about interfacing it ( i'd go with the column)

5 should be labeled input(ignition side) and output(starterside) usually have to cut the wire as it also acts as a starter kill.

7 thse are all the outputs to different relays that control accessories or parts of the cars when the car is in remote mode( window roll dwn  ignition relay etc)

8 not on this car unless you plan on putting multiple sensors on the system for the alrm section the stater sytem shoud be solated if its the one im thinking off the top of my head.

if you haev factory power locks (many did not) just find the  negative pulse wire that sets the lock and unlock off.(you may be able to do this via the factory arm and disarm but dont quote me) I dont usually come across FD's with power locks so a factory diagram should help.

If you dont know how to test for wire polarity I suggest you read up on it before you attempt this install. again the data should be correct but better safe then sorry.

good luck

also if you have the 13bTT make sure you program the tubo timer if you dont already have one . I have an fc TT and it works great .

PS you dont need the turbo timer provision if you already have a trbo timer(greddy or the like) I have an ungo sr9000 it seems to work pretty good

Great! I think I'm all set. Just need to clarify on how to detect (-) or (+) circuit :)

I had Greddy turbo-timer which I sold in favor of this new system. Paid $70 shipped for Viper and Greddy was $50 :)

FD doors use "slave" system. I think all FD's like that. Drivers door does not have actuator and passenger door does. Passenger door automatically opens when you open driver door with a key. Driver door won't open if you open passenger door with a key. Weird, but this is what it is. People just put 1 actuator on drivers door and it trips factory switch which actuates passenger door. So, for progressive - some modifications to OEM stuff will be needed. Not additions.

For #2 from instruction:

System has valet switch push button. This is something else. Not sure what it means with all those pulses.

I also have on/off toggle switch in a package with loose wires and no mentioning where to connect it.

thats for the main activaton wire I believe its bla and white on the harness w/ the tach sense and brake switch input this is for something else it just shows that valet type switch is necessary to allow pulsaing of the ground

Yes, I got it. That on-off switch for BLACK/ white neutral switch. So, I don't need it as I will use neutral switch for that.

Do you think this input for pulsating necessary for system operation? If they didn't include button and didn't provide any more details - then maybe I don't need it? Kind of optional feature?