keyless entry issue for 93 rx7

Hi guys looking for some help on a door lock triggering circuit for a 1993 Mazda RX7 for keyless entry. Is thee a trigger circuit out there that is smart enough to deal with this stock system? What are the search terms that I should be using to research this type of setup? The issues that I am running into is that , I cannot seem to find a way of triggering the stock system electronically to take the pulse commands from a audiovox car alarm. it appears from the Lock Actuator Scematic for this car that the circuit must charge off the current state the lock position is in and then it can throw the actuator, ie simply grounding out “G/R” or “G/Y” to “B” on the “door lock switch LH” does not work. What must be done to make the circuit work is “G/R” must be held to “B” (allowing it to charge) and then “G/R” must be released from “B” and then immediately switched to “G/Y” & “B” or vise versa to make the circuit operate in the desired manner from a locked state to an unlocked state. Anyone have some ideas or info to lead me in the right direction? [/QUOTE]

X2 , actuator in door , have funLuis

Sound Waves

Is up to the installer to test all wires with a DMM whenever possible.

ah yes, I should have mentioned (didn’t expect people would have been so familiar with the inner workings of this particular vehicle) I actually purchased a RHD actuator overseas that fits right into the system and works flawlessly when patched into the passenger side of the USDM system. I have used it for years with the sock system, but am adding keyless entry, and this issue has now popped up. For posterity, using a standard generic door actuator would indeed fix the issue because there is a switch internally that is actuated manually by the door locking mechanism But this is not a very desirable way to actuate the door locking mechanism, as the area most use to actuate the manual locking mechanism is very weak, and failures have occurred because of the thin plastics that must be used when you shoehorn in a actuator in that cramped little space. Some even resort to trimming the housings of the actuator in certain cases. So this is not a very durable solution, and I would like to approach it in a different manner if possible. My approach was to find a perfectly fitting stock actuator, and while using this stock actuator did introduce an undesired side effect that would have been otherwise omitted by using a generic actuator, I am fairly confident there is a way around the issues that the stock mazda circuit presents. Does anyone have some ideas on how actuating the stock actuator in the schematic could be accomplished? Thanks for taking the time to look over the problem, also can anyone that understands these things better than I explain what this circuit that charges a cap and then releases to drive a actuator would even be called so that I may search for answers here and elsewhere for solutions to this issue?

rotarypower101 wrote:    What must be done to make the circuit work is “G/R” must be held to “B” (allowing it to charge) and then “G/R” must be released from “B” and then immediately switched to “G/Y” & “B” or vise versa to make the circuit operate in the desired manner from a locked state to an unlocked state. Anyone have some ideas or info to lead me in the right direction?

OK, i have an idea. a couple of the guys and I were discussing a certain type of relay in a couple other threads. links are below so you can read them. but basicly i was looking for a relay to do a specific job. all i could find is actually the type of relay you need to make your locks work, only instead of a SPST, you will need a SPDT. easy enough. read these threads, and if your interested in making it work, ill get you the part number and draw the diagram.

https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=110908&KW=ckeeler&tpn=1

https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=110908&KW=ckeeler&tpn=1

WOW…….. deshavu! Single momentary pulse to toggle on/off

ckeeler wrote: i understand thats what the diagram says it does. heres the problem.....i've never seen a relay like that, and dont think it exists, so.......whats the part number? where can i find one? if its out there i'd like to have about a dozen or so.(seriously)

rotarypower101 wrote: I have asked and specified to my supplier that I need a relay that will LOCK into position and stay until the next momentary pulse, but I was told that this is not made, is this true?

I also asked if there is a relay that existed that would fit into that circuit, and would fit that particular need for functionality. Still nothing AFAIK there exists no relay that will do as described for this circuit; secondly there is no latching relay that will change the coils polarity. While it still could exist, I looked and asked around fairly thoroughly, as well as searched the web, and found no particular part numbers that could be ordered or used to track down a part that could be used in substitution. I unsuccessfully built this design, making necessary adjustments with micro switches after the original diagram failed to operate in the desired fashion, NO DICE! Just got wild oscillations of the relay. I asked a lot of people how to make this simple circuit work with this “special” relay, and all I got from 3 different supply houses was a “does not exist” reply for what I surmised would have to be a special operation of the relay. Why this part does not exist as a single component is beyond me though, as it would seem to be a very simple to use and have very desirable functionality. Anyway, I did end up building the 5 relay option and designing my board for my space constraints, it turned out well, but there is the issue of shock to the system because of the application that could potentially release one of the relays causing the circuit to shut off unintentionally. That’s why I was hoping to use a latching relay as in the first diagram. I actually did find a correctly working board, which could be tracked down again through my notes, but I unfortunately burnt up the IC when trying to power it with another “suggested circuit” to reduce 12V to 10V IIRC. Voltage reducer worked great when tested with my MM, but when applied to the board instantly “let the smoke out”…. It’s a very tricky board and I am sad to have seen it go as if fit my needs perfectly, because it drives the included relay regardless of shock to the system to the proper position. Details of that particular project can be found here: seadooproject Custom_Jim, did have a viable solution, though it did not fit my needs.

In the above post I meant to say JDM passenger actuator, installed as a driver side actuator on a USDM car. Just so thee is no confusion.

Also ckeele, i am not sure how would this particular momentary pulse would work for the posted circuit I have mentioned above, the circuit needs to charge as opposed to simply supplying a ground to the aforementioned pinouts? of which i have the timer unit didssasemleled if the components used are of any help diagnosing a solution

ckeeler wrote: rotarypower101 wrote:    What must be done to make the circuit work is “G/R” must be held to “B” (allowing it to charge) and then “G/R” must be released from “B” and then immediately switched to “G/Y” & “B” or vise versa to make the circuit operate in the desired manner from a locked state to an unlocked state. Anyone have some ideas or info to lead me in the right direction? OK, i have an idea. a couple of the guys and I were discussing a certain type of relay in a couple other threads. links are below so you can read them. but basicly i was looking for a relay to do a specific job. all i could find is actually the type of relay you need to make your locks work, only instead of a SPST, you will need a SPDT. easy enough. read these threads, and if your interested in making it work, ill get you the part number and draw the diagram. https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=110908&KW=ckeeler&tpn=1 https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=110908&KW=ckeeler&tpn=1

Here's a really stupid guess on my part, being that I've never touched a '93-up RX7. Is there a possibility that the diagram is just wrong as far as the switch(specifically, should it show the lock switch as normally open entirely rather than normally closed with the GREEN/ red unlock)? And that simply connecting the (-) outputs from an aftermarket keyless entry would work the locks properly?C Renner's Auto Electronix

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