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2009 Hummer H3 Remote Start Review


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tbird2340 
Copper - Posts: 363
Copper spacespace
Joined: October 03, 2003
Location: Ohio, United States
Posted: December 04, 2009 at 7:57 PM / IP Logged  
What is military splice and where is the boot? I've already looked down low by the kick and didn't find them there.
Thanks
hurleyloser 
Copper - Posts: 157
Copper spacespace
Joined: February 05, 2005
Location: California, United States
Posted: December 05, 2009 at 12:57 AM / IP Logged  
A military splice is when you strip back the insulation expose about 1 inch of bare wire and poke a hole through it (more like creating a gap in the strands). Then you strip back about 2 inches off of the end of the wire you're splicing into the circuit, stick the bare wire in through the loop, and twist the excess wire around and around alternating from left to right sides of the wire you're splicing into the circuit. Tape it up with some super 33, and bam.
A military splice is damn difficult to undo or fail if you do it right. now imagine a soldered military splice! ;)
MECP Master Certified Technician
ASE A6 Certified Technician
jim hunter 
Silver - Posts: 351
Silver spacespace
Joined: March 23, 2006
Location: United States
Posted: December 05, 2009 at 11:15 AM / IP Logged  
the boot is the ruber between the door and the body, pop it off of the body side, and slide it back a bit(wont go far)towards the door, if its still too tight, pushe the door side of boot slightly inside the door giving you more room to work and feed your wires thru the body hole and connect inside the boot, DO NOT use t-taps , splice them
hurleyloser 
Copper - Posts: 157
Copper spacespace
Joined: February 05, 2005
Location: California, United States
Posted: December 07, 2009 at 1:31 AM / IP Logged  
The boot on that car is a molex plug if my recollection serves me right.. if you plan on running wires in, be prepared to do some drilling.
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ASE A6 Certified Technician
nitrob 
Member - Posts: 16
Member spacespace
Joined: April 22, 2008
Location: Germany
Posted: December 07, 2009 at 11:26 AM / IP Logged  

I have some questions, I am getting ready to put in a Viper 5701 in for a customer tomorrow morning using the new Passlock module for the H3.  What I am having a hard time figuring out is where do I go for the starter wire?  Is it the one in the notes that is the purple wire in a two wire plug in the engine compartment?  Does the blue and white wire that is on the H1 harness need to be hooked up or can I leave it?  Any help would be great.  I have this thing pre-wired and ready to install in the morning and want to get it done as quickly as possible.

Regards,

Charles Bettis

chriswallace187 
Gold - Posts: 1,661
Gold spacespace
Joined: March 11, 2002
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: December 07, 2009 at 1:03 PM / IP Logged  
nitrob,
1. What is the "new Passlock module"? Brand name and specific bypass part number would be helpful.
2. I don't know if by "blue and white wire on the H1 harness" you mean the white with blue stripe (-) remote start activation input, or the blue with white stripe (-) 2nd status/defroster output. Neither one is necessary to connect. The remote start activation input allows for activation by, e.g., a factory keyless entry remote or a momentary switch. The 2nd status/defroster output is pretty self-explanatory.
3. The starter wire on this truck is not a conventional wire from the ignition switch and needs to be approached differently.
First, it's not necessary to connect it anywhere for remote start.
Second, if you want to do starter kill with the alarm, what supposedly works (I say that with caution, since I haven't tried this myself) is using a relay, controlled by the orange ground-when-armed output, to connect the WHITE/ green Ignition and WHITE/ red Accessory wires at the ignition switch. What this will do is keep the truck from cranking - since the truck cranks when it sees Ignition stay at 12v and Accessory drop out, this prevents that.
The relay would be wired like this:
85 - orange (-) ground-when-armed from 5701
86, 87 - WHITE/ green Ignition wire at ignition switch.
30 - WHITE/ red Accessory wire at ignition switch.
C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two
nitrob 
Member - Posts: 16
Member spacespace
Joined: April 22, 2008
Location: Germany
Posted: December 07, 2009 at 1:35 PM / IP Logged  

The module is a passlock-sl2-H3 by crimestopper. 

I was talking about the white with blue, sorry. 

So how will this thing remote start, I am confused.  I will not put the starter kill on this, he does not care about that.  In Germany, autotheft is not so common.  Is the instructions you gave me for autostart?  Thanks for the input.  I still do not understand how it will remote start though if I do not use the violet and green wires on the H3 harness on the 5701.  Confused on that.

chriswallace187 
Gold - Posts: 1,661
Gold spacespace
Joined: March 11, 2002
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: December 07, 2009 at 2:05 PM / IP Logged  
nitrob,
The H3 (along with most other late model GM vehicles) has its starter controlled by the Body Control Module and Powertrain Control Module, not directly by the ignition switch.
The ignition switch has 4 positions - 1. Off 2. Accessory 3. Run 4. Crank.
The WHITE/ red Accessory wire shows 12 volts in positions 2 and 3. The WHITE/ green Ignition wire shows 12 volts in positions 3 and 4.
Also, the WHITE/ yellow and WHITE/ blue Passlock wires are normally not connected. With a key inserted, they are shorted together directly in positions 1, 2, and 3. In position 4 they are shorted through a resistor(the resistor value varies).
When the BCM sees 2 things happen, it initiates engine cranking. One - ignition is at 12 volts and accessory is not. Two - the appropriate resistance value on the WHITE/ blue wire.
How does this work with remote start? The bypass module you've used supplies that appropriate resistance value, and the remote starter when it attempts to crank will cut power to the orange heavy gauge accessory output.
C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two
nitrob 
Member - Posts: 16
Member spacespace
Joined: April 22, 2008
Location: Germany
Posted: December 20, 2009 at 2:46 PM / IP Logged  

Well, the passlock module works ok but at first, vehicle would not start and you would have to wait a few mins then it would start.  After I did the install, a few days later the customer called me and said the heater will not work until the key is in the run or start position.  I took the center panel out and as the Instructions say by Viper, take the orange wire on the heave 10 pin harness and hook it to the heater accessory wire.  Well, I found that 4 out of five wires on the fan switch are have 12 volts when the key is on so I hooked the orange wire up to the yellow on this harness which should be blower setting 4 on the fan switch.  Now, the vehicle security light shows a locked sign, the vehicle locked in park when I put it back in park and the vehicle will not start.  I am baffled and worried I may have fried something.  Also, the alarm will not work, wont lock or unlock the doors, LED not flashing and the bypass module is not lighting up.  All fuses to the alarm are good.  What could cause this, and how can I fix it.  Looks like I may end up paying for an expensive repair and I am trying to avoid that.

Regards,

Charles

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