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2009 Hummer H3 Remote Start Review


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tbird2340 
Copper - Posts: 363
Copper spacespace
Joined: October 03, 2003
Location: Ohio, United States
Posted: November 09, 2009 at 7:18 PM / IP Logged  
I have a customer wanting a remote start in a 2009 Hummer H3.. I always research before I accept a customer to be sure I'm confident in doing one.. How hard are these? Should I go the route of using relays to bypass the passlock or spend the $60 for a ADS-DLSL GM?
Here's what I have for wiring..
12V - Red or Orange
Ignition - WHITE/ Green @ Ignition Harness
Accessory - WHITE/ Red @ Ignition Harness
Starter - N/A
Tach - Opposite of Pink @ Injector
Lock - (-) Light Blue @ Driver's Kick Panel
Unlock - (-) Dark Blue @ Driver's Kick Panel
Brake - Light Blue Above Brake Pedal
Parking Lights - (+) Brown in Driver's Kick, (-) BROWN / White at Switch
Horn - Green @ Steering Column
Is that it for the common wiring? No Arm/Disarm wires to hook up? I seen a note on a site that said "MUST HOOK UP FACTORY DISARM FROM REMOTE START TO ALLOW VEHICLE TO REMOTE START WHILE LOCKED".. ??
As far as wiring the relays for the passlock bypass.. I found this diagram but it doesn't give the wire colors for the H3. Anyone know what they are?
Any other tips would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks!!
2009 Hummer H3 Remote Start Review -- posted image.
dvaldez0989 
Copper - Posts: 98
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Joined: June 11, 2009
Location: Texas, United States
Posted: November 10, 2009 at 10:07 AM / IP Logged  

when i did a 2008 hummer i used the directed 556uw for the immobilizer bypass and the directed xk01 for the door locks and if i am not mistakened i had to update the firmware for the xk01 using the xk loader from directed.

tbird2340 
Copper - Posts: 363
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Location: Ohio, United States
Posted: November 10, 2009 at 10:10 AM / IP Logged  
Aren't the door locks negative pulse? If so, why the need for a XK01?
chriswallace187 
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Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: November 10, 2009 at 11:48 AM / IP Logged  
tbird2340,
Apparently, and this is really surprising to me, the 2009 H3 is still only equipped with the late-model variant Passlock immobilizer. (I've never done one personally and I was thinking that it, along with Colorado/Canyon, had switched to the hybrid PassKey3+ transponder-based system.)
Since all my resources are saying this, I'd recommend using a cheaper Passlock bypass (not a fan of the relay and resistor method, takes too long and too many components to break). The wiring info on this site for the '06 H3 should be valid if you wanted to check that out as well.
If you're doing an RS/keyless combo unit, the ADS-DLSL-GM may be a better choice because it integrates the factory alarm control. For a standalone remote start-only unit, the alarm should disarm with the Passlock, so you can save a few $$ and use a cheaper bypass.
C Renner's Auto Electronix
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mikvot 
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Location: Missouri, United States
Posted: November 10, 2009 at 11:51 AM / IP Logged  
I just did one a couple of weeks ago, using the relays. It wasn't bad at all. No need to pull the column cover. All the wires you need run to a plug to  the left of the steering column.
Chris Luongo 
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Location: Massachusetts, United States
Posted: November 10, 2009 at 12:00 PM / IP Logged  
I've never done an H3, but I've done a handful of Colorado/Canyon....should be the same thing.
There are various ways to use various modules to interface with the unique Passlock system on that car, and if you look around online, pretty much EVERY one of those modules has some sort of complaint from someone.
It seems pretty much universally agreed that if you do it with the two relays, it always works and never comes back. The (very few) that I've done were all with relays and resistors, and had no problems.
Audiovox has the best diagram to configure the relays, in my opinion. Go to techservices.audiovox.com and sign up for an account. But I just realized someone already posted the diagram anyway.
Agreed with the others about the doorlocks---the module allows you to arm and disarm the factory alarm, and direct wiring doesn't. But all the installs I did were for dealers, and they didn't want to pay for a module, so I have no experience with those.
tbird2340 
Copper - Posts: 363
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Joined: October 03, 2003
Location: Ohio, United States
Posted: November 10, 2009 at 1:09 PM / IP Logged  
mikvot wrote:
I just did one a couple of weeks ago, using the relays. It wasn't bad at all. No need to pull the column cover. All the wires you need run to a plug to  the left of the steering column.
Was yours a 2009?
tbird2340 
Copper - Posts: 363
Copper spacespace
Joined: October 03, 2003
Location: Ohio, United States
Posted: November 10, 2009 at 7:27 PM / IP Logged  
Looking at the diagram from Installogy it says the arm/disarm is "OEM Remote Only"..
What does that mean?
jim hunter 
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Joined: March 23, 2006
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Posted: November 10, 2009 at 7:37 PM / IP Logged  
factory alarm only arms/disarms with factory remote so if your using a keyless entry remote starter and the customer never uses the factory remote the factory alarm never arms. if you want the factory alarm to work via your remote you will have to use a data module, but if thats not an issue i just always use the neg lock wires in the left kick area(above kick panel access so you dont have to remove kick panel.
an h3 is just a colorado/canyon so the passlock wires are the same as trhat vehicl, WHITE/ blue and WHITE/ yellow, i always have just wired the 2 relays and have never had a comenback, yet everyone ive seen done with a 556l or asgm4 type module has returned for start issues.
i just did an 09 canyon the other day and no chris they still are just using this hybrid passlock no pk3 circle plus( i think they are rerady to change or phase out this line so there not putting any money into new technology for it)and you can go tachless as it has the new gm smart start technology, your wire diagram is correct except i have always used one with a diode on the ign feed to the relay on pin 85 of that 2nd relay
tbird2340 
Copper - Posts: 363
Copper spacespace
Joined: October 03, 2003
Location: Ohio, United States
Posted: November 15, 2009 at 4:22 PM / IP Logged  
1. So I don't have to worry about the arm/disarm wires if the customer doesn't use the oem remote?
2. If the customer would happen to lock with the oem remote and then try a remote start the alarm would go off, right?
3. Is it worth the trouble to even bother keeping the oem alarm intact with the aftermarket remote start?
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