complete novice, alarm/remote start, 88 mr2

Just out of interest a Mk1 MR2 with a transponder immobiliser? Don't think so unless it was after market in which case it can be easily discarded for the purpose of this exercise. I did an alarm + R/s on a 95 Mk2 last week which didn't have one. Basic requirements: DMM a cheap one but adequate is about £30 ($45) from Maplin. Drill/Screwdriver with 3mm and 7 or 8mm bits (a stepped cone cut 3-14mm is better but they start at about £14 = $21 here). + Phillips no.2 bit. Assorted cable for pin switches. Good quality insulated tape, 2 reels. I use Scotch 33+ but that's £3/$5 per reel here. Solder 60/40 flux cored leaded works better. Soldering iron, I use Weller gun and pyropens but these are for pro use, buy a cheap butane pen type at Halfords or Maplin. 8 and 10mm spanners. Door or trim popper basic about £25 /$38 from Snap-On. Various ring and receptacle terminals insulated crimp type, again Maplin or Halfords. At least 3 x1N4004 diodes, Maplins. 3 pin switches for rear trunk (boot), engine bay and bonnet (hood) lids. That's your bare minimum. For our friends across the pond (not Powermyster, that's just a small and very windy pond!) Halfords is a cross between a cycle store, motoring accessories and auto parts and a Sears and thinks it can do installs as well.Maplin is a UK version of Radio Shack that's far cheaper for parts and the staff are more efficient. Stanley Knife Crimping tool you can spend up to £200 ($300) but a reasonable price for constant use is about £54 for a ratchet type.

howie ll wrote: WE aren't up our own backsides from your answers to some questions and lack of answers to the question I asked you on your other post you are helplessly out of your depth and I'm seriously worried about what damage you will do to your vehicle and what it's going to cost YOU to put it right. On your other posts I dismissed the R/S you named because I hadn't heard of it. If it uses oil pressure switch or voltage to determine tach sense, i.e. if engine is running then definitely don't try to install it. On your other post you couldn't tell the difference between a standard wired relay (used for starter cut and anti-grind) and a lock module. You still haven't told me whether you can start up the vehicle on a cold morning without pumping the accelerator because if you have to pump it the whole thing is moot anyway. Answer our questions without the attitude that we are ganging up on you and you might get some answers.

he didnt ask if i had to pump the accelerator , he automatically assumed i did because it is an old car , yes it is old but at the time it was far ahead of its time and still has features that modern cars are only using now like v v t i , t vis , as for doing harm that was why i came on here to try to make sense of it all , and i am aware of the risks so let me worry about that , i am not a complete idiot that i couldnt figure out that if i needed to pump the accelerator remote starting would be useless. i will put the schematic on here and if there are any positive suggestions i will be grateful , if not then please dont try to use my inexperience as a catalyst for your sarcasm .i am simply a reasonably intelligent person asking people who are knowledgeable in their field for their help , my situation precludes me from getting this fitted for me and i am trying to put this period of unemployment to some constructive use and maybe learn a little on the way

[IMG]https://i772.photobucket.com/albums/yy5/scoobykid028/scan0001.jpg[/IMG]

"Just out of interest a Mk1 MR2 with a transponder immobiliser" it was after market , a sigma , and the spare transponder didnt work so i decided to put this alarm system in instead of chasing up a spare transponder fob , as for the list of recommended materials i appreciate it and will use it , thanks

what years the car? that way we can pull up diagrams and wire colours and guide you in the right direction,

it is a 1988 mk1 mr2 (supercharger)

What's the benefit of connecting to oil sensor?

scoobyblue wrote: howie ll wrote: WE aren't up our own backsides from your answers to some questions and lack of answers to the question I asked you on your other post you are helplessly out of your depth and I'm seriously worried about what damage you will do to your vehicle and what it's going to cost YOU to put it right. On your other posts I dismissed the R/S you named because I hadn't heard of it. If it uses oil pressure switch or voltage to determine tach sense, i.e. if engine is running then definitely don't try to install it. On your other post you couldn't tell the difference between a standard wired relay (used for starter cut and anti-grind) and a lock module. You still haven't told me whether you can start up the vehicle on a cold morning without pumping the accelerator because if you have to pump it the whole thing is moot anyway. Answer our questions without the attitude that we are ganging up on you and you might get some answers. he didnt ask if i had to pump the accelerator , he automatically assumed i did because it is an old car , yes it is old but at the time it was far ahead of its time and still has features that modern cars are only using now like v v t i , t vis , as for doing harm that was why i came on here to try to make sense of it all , and i am aware of the risks so let me worry about that , i am not a complete idiot that i couldnt figure out that if i needed to pump the accelerator remote starting would be useless. i will put the schematic on here and if there are any positive suggestions i will be grateful , if not then please dont try to use my inexperience as a catalyst for your sarcasm .i am simply a reasonably intelligent person asking people who are knowledgeable in their field for their help , my situation precludes me from getting this fitted for me and i am trying to put this period of unemployment to some constructive use and maybe learn a little on the way [IMG]https://i772.photobucket.com/albums/yy5/scoobykid028/scan0001.jpg[/IMG]  THIS SERIES

howie ll wrote: Your locks are low current neg which means you need to supply neg to lock and unlock the vehicle, also on a cold morning if you have to pump the accelerator before she catches, don't bother also the brand you're fitting, throw it away, last but not least considering it's a very easy car but with lots of work should you be doing this?

2nd post in this series... Dude...Relax...We realize you are OVER-YOUR-HEAD here...Doubt you'll find a better site...This is how most posts go...I dont really feel like giving you a lesson...So read through some posts first...Then make a comment on this site...Im sure you will be very shocked at the plethra of knowledge and help associated with this site...Howie has installed for like 50 years...or so...That guy will be your best friend...If the responses werent so harsh...Take your time...Everything will work out...I couldnt imagine what your post would look like if something got damaged because of mis-communication..geez...GO the12volt.com...!  Some posts take 50-60 responses to figure or complete...So having 14 is not so bad...They have to know what/who there dealing with...If they dont know...the "jargon" they type might be hard to pick up on...Say...I;m sorry howie...I would be honored for you to help me...! He will be your brother in arms...UK'ish

M.E.C.P & First-Class

Go slow and drink lots of water...Procrastinators' Unite...Tomorrow!

I actually asked you about the accelerator twice, I assumed nothing but if you're too lazy to read it? This is my point of view:- Oil pressure switch. If a unit uses the voltage signal at this point to sense tach rather than a dedicated tach signal it's not going to work well if at all. There are many experienced installers out there who've torn their hair out over this junk. Your skill base appears woefully inadequate for this job. Knowing AC wiring has ABSOLUTELY nothing to do with auto electrics. Yes I dabble in Cat 5 work so I'm aware. Your attitude.

i have obviously got off on the wrong foot so for that i apologise  but i took exceoption to you dismissing the system as rubbish when you then said you were unfamiliar with it , the accelerator does not have to be touched for either hot or cold starts and i did reply to that , according to my info there is a dedicated tach wire at the "check"connector , it is (-). , i said i was grateful for the list of items you suggested , the only thing in it that i havent got are the diodes, and i dont know where to use them , and finally , in reply to another members comment , i do know what a dmm is . i dont wish to rub anyone up the wrong way its just that on any of the car club forums that i am in i found people much more willing to impart knowledge in a way that is easily understood , whereas on here seems more cliquish . anyway i am willing to wipe the slate clean and begin again , if that is acceptable

DMM= Digital Multi Meter you can get one at your local radioshack for like 10 bucks. Its used to test circuits without the risk of damaging sensitive components. A test light CAN damage some components if you are not careful. This alarm seems to have built in relays for the doorlocks. RED / BLACK. So tell us which part of the install is really the problem. What wire specifically are you asking about? or do u need help with EVERY wire?