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complete novice, alarm/remote start, 88 mr2


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scoobyblue 
Member - Posts: 21
Member spacespace
Joined: December 12, 2009
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: December 13, 2009 at 12:57 PM / IP Logged  

hi , i have the dmm from previous encounters , howie mentioned diodes but didnt say where for , no i am not having a go at him he probably assumed i should know . on the door connections it says positive or negative on them does this mean it doesnt matter which? , is the door lock in put a constant 12v? on the two outputs is that one for each door?when it says the starter , interior lamp and brake pedal  connections are negative 500 and 200ma output what exactly does this mean ? is the brake pedal connection necessary on a manual car , i presume it is there for cars that need the brake pedal depressed when starting. on the door pin connections one is positive input and one is negative input , do i connect to +on one door and - on the other or do i connect to the = and- on the drivers door? .on the turn signal connections i presume one is for the left and one for the right turn. the start kill/ anti grind  relay , is it wired to the car body side of the loom with the alarm wired to the ignition switch side?i also dont think i need the key in signal connection. the trunk/boot connection i will run to the boot until i get an actuator motor for it , someone here informed me that the spare door actuator i have would be too weak to work on this release.

so essentially it is every wire that i was trying to confirm , excuse my stupidity but we are all stupid before we learn

howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: December 13, 2009 at 1:38 PM / IP Logged  
Here we go, from memory becvause I haven't been near this model in about 10 years! Starting from rear:-
Pin switch for rear luggage compartment (unless there's a light there to find which wire of 2, remove plug from bulb and test leads. The one you want is the one NOT showing 12volts or with a DMM it shows continuity to ground (earth). Connect via a diode as stated before with the diode band towards the switch. Next again a pin switch for the engine bay, again with a diode. Join together. Siren position, on Mk2 and 3 I install in engine bay near the fan inlet (right hand side) you might have a similar place. The alternative is right at the front which is where your third pin switch goes, also with diode mounted the same way. Bring those leads to the wire on your alarm that says trunk/hood either or both.
Door contacts or triggers. Join to either pin switch or check at floor loom driver's kick panel probably RED / white with either white or silver dots.TEST
The alarm will tell you lights, you need indicators, probably a single output wire from the alarm, no expense spared then,2 x 2N5404 diodes join to that wire with bands away from alarm and join to GREEN/ black and GREEN/ YELLOW on loom coming away from steering wheel or loom in driver kick panel.TEST
Lock and unlock will be in one of the plugs probably white in the driver kick panel. with your DMM set to continuity, place the black probe to ground. There are a number of bolts grounding factory cables use one of there. With the other end probe all the connectors in that plug. Remove ign. key and throw over lock striker on that door, shut the other door. This will give you lock and unlock. TEST Set the alarm for negative lock output. Yes polarity is EXTREMELY important with DC work that's what I was trying to put over to you.
Ignition and start: tach; at the back in the engine bay is the coil. You are looking for a cable set that goes from this to the distributor.
Test each of these the following way. DMM set to 20v AC the correct wire will give 2.5 - 3volts AC on idle. Increasing the revs should give you about 5 volts AC.
Ignition not sure, I think BLACK/ orange, ignition 2 BLACK / YELLOW starter, BLACK/ white ACC blue plus 1 or 2 constant 12volt wires either white or BLACK/ red. These will be your power supply for your unit.TEST
Ignition 1 is the wire that goes to 12v+ on ignition (not Acc) and stays at 12v+ whilst cranking the engine i.e. the start sequence.
That's it, good luck.
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: December 13, 2009 at 1:47 PM / IP Logged  
Again neg on the door triggers or pins Starter 500milliamps? Can't be that circuit draws 10-20amps, must be why they gave you a relay. This is normal wiring for a starter kill relay....alarms neg armed output (GWA) to relay 85 ignition INPUT to 86, starter switch to 30 and starter side + remote start input (starter output) to 87a.
scoobyblue 
Member - Posts: 21
Member spacespace
Joined: December 12, 2009
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: December 13, 2009 at 1:59 PM / IP Logged  
that is exactly what i neede howie , i really appreciate it and apologise for any earlier misunderstanding , i would hold neither you or anyone on this forum responsible for misinformation as previously intimated by someone , i am big enough and ugly enough to be responsible for my own mistakes , so once again many thanks for taking the time to help and the patience
tedmond 
Gold - Posts: 4,610
Gold spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 06, 2007
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posted: December 13, 2009 at 2:36 PM / IP Logged  

damn howie, your good !

i was going to show you a complete wire matchup from unit to car, but i guess you wont be needing that. good luck with the install.

scoobyblue 
Member - Posts: 21
Member spacespace
Joined: December 12, 2009
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: December 13, 2009 at 2:40 PM / IP Logged  
if you have that worked out i would be interested to see it , i had a look howie at the schematic and i thought the wire marked trunk was for a remote boot release , the valet mode for safety is built in to the led push button , i am not doubting your expertise just looking for confirmation , thanks
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: December 13, 2009 at 5:25 PM / IP Logged  
Your alarm should show a pictorial icon of a pin switch for the trunk trigger. I never discussed trunk release, there's no point you've got a perfectly good mechanical release there. Tommy it's 36 years! What's the valet switch got to do with anything I've mentioned? You're going all over the place here. Be methodical. Hell I even told you what and where on that vehicle.
scoobyblue 
Member - Posts: 21
Member spacespace
Joined: December 12, 2009
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: December 13, 2009 at 5:33 PM / IP Logged  
thanks for the confirmation
scoobyblue 
Member - Posts: 21
Member spacespace
Joined: December 12, 2009
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: December 15, 2009 at 7:31 AM / IP Logged  

i nhave started working my way through identifying the wire in my 1988 toyota mk1 mr2 supercharger , the first problem i have come to  is that there are 2 different wires showing 12v only at starter turn , one is brown /red the other BLACK/ white . the brown /red one was previously used for the immobiliser i removed while the BLACK/ white one has only a little nick in the insulation(presumably someone else was testing before but didnt reinsulate), the site identifies the starter as being the black and white one but what is the BROWN / red one for . any ideas?

scoobyblue 
Member - Posts: 21
Member spacespace
Joined: December 12, 2009
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: December 15, 2009 at 7:36 AM / IP Logged  
i should have added that i cant locate the ign2 wire either by testing or by the sites suggested colour coding (BLACK/ orange), in fact there is no wires of that description in the harness
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