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viper 5101 8 pin connector


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moonliter 
Copper - Posts: 322
Copper spacespace
Joined: February 28, 2007
Location: Canada
Posted: February 09, 2010 at 5:03 PM / IP Logged  

If you want, you can pick up the dark.blue ( constant +12v ) also at the ignition harness for the (H1/2).

Check your pm, I have more info if you need.

shafferny 
Copper - Posts: 240
Copper spacespace
Joined: February 02, 2008
Location: New York, United States
Posted: February 09, 2010 at 7:02 PM / IP Logged  

I noticed from the vehicle's factory service manual there are three 12v constant wires supplied to the ignition switch, red, pink/back, and dark blue(all 40A fused and 12ga). The information I recieved from Directed Electronic didn't indicate the dark blue wire at all.

I could perhaps used the dark blue wire to power the H1/2 and the door lock interface I'll be installing.

My other thought is to use the pink/black for the H3/2, dark blue for the H3/5, and the red for the H3/8. Then run a dedicated power wire from the battery to power the H1/2 and door lock interface. 

moonliter 
Copper - Posts: 322
Copper spacespace
Joined: February 28, 2007
Location: Canada
Posted: February 09, 2010 at 7:27 PM / IP Logged  
I think you are way over your head. What I had suggested is more than enough. If you like, for sure you could use dark.blue to power the H1/2 & the power lock module.
shafferny 
Copper - Posts: 240
Copper spacespace
Joined: February 02, 2008
Location: New York, United States
Posted: February 10, 2010 at 7:54 AM / IP Logged  

Every other remote starter I've installed in the past has had it's own power supply directly from the battery. This is the only time I've ever considered tapping into the ignition harness for power. We've all heard the horror storys of someone's car going up in flames due to a misinstalled system., so I'd rather error on the side of caution than take a chance comprimising things. That's why I'm trying to figure out the best way to install this without taking the chance of over loading things. 

On a different topic, yet related, I was looking at the installation manual for the remote car starter that I installed in my Jeep almost three years ago and it only has provisions for one accessory output. Interesting.

Here is the manual from that remote car starter...

http://www.designtech-intl.com/pdf/manuals/28624T.pdf

As you can see, it's night and day between the Viper manual and Design Tech. The Design Tech manual is clearly geared towards the DIY installer. 

moonliter 
Copper - Posts: 322
Copper spacespace
Joined: February 28, 2007
Location: Canada
Posted: February 10, 2010 at 6:36 PM / IP Logged  

I already had mapped out all the wirings from the (H3) 8-pin harness to the appropriated wires at the ignition switch. What I had done, I mimic the function of each relay for the operation of the ign, starter,& accessories just like the jeep factory ignition would do.

Regarding the H1/2, dark.blue at the ign harness will be fine for the module.

shafferny wrote:
I could perhaps used the dark blue wire to power the H1/2 and the door lock interface I'll be installing.

My other thought is to use the pink/black for the H3/2, dark blue for the H3/5, and the red for the H3/8. Then run a dedicated power wire from the battery to power the H1/2 and door lock interface.

 

Check this out & compare to the chart I posted, with the way it was setup I couldn't figure how you could overload the system.

  https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/file.asp?ID=831

shafferny 
Copper - Posts: 240
Copper spacespace
Joined: February 02, 2008
Location: New York, United States
Posted: February 12, 2010 at 3:09 PM / IP Logged  

Looking at the factory wiring diagram you're 100% right. My mistake.

I will wire everything up as you directed. Thanks for all the help. I appreciate it.

shafferny 
Copper - Posts: 240
Copper spacespace
Joined: February 02, 2008
Location: New York, United States
Posted: February 12, 2010 at 8:56 PM / IP Logged  

I think what was throwing me off was that I was trying to think logically about the way things work. For example, I was thinking that if you have a heavy guage12v constant coming into the ignition switch, then you must have a heavy guage power wire coming out of it. It doesn't necessarily work that way though.

In fact, from looking at the diagram the red wire powers both the BLACK/ white and RED / dark blue at the same time, eventhough the BLACK/ white and RED / dark blue are the same size wire as the red. One would think that this would overload the red wire, but that's not the case.

moonliter, the diagram you posted is much better than the factory service manual I have. It's not as convoluted. The factory service manual is much more detail, and therefore you have to jump from page, to page, to page, making it difficult to see the big picture. Thank you.

shafferny 
Copper - Posts: 240
Copper spacespace
Joined: February 02, 2008
Location: New York, United States
Posted: February 16, 2010 at 5:36 PM / IP Logged  

Got it all installed. Everything works great. I had to repair a couple of the ignition harness wires where the previous remote starter was soldered in, but no biggie.

Thanks for all the help.

shafferny 
Copper - Posts: 240
Copper spacespace
Joined: February 02, 2008
Location: New York, United States
Posted: February 17, 2010 at 8:45 PM / IP Logged  

To answer my original question, and to possible help anybody else out. This is the way I understand the H3 harness on the Viper 5101. Someone please correct me if I'm wrong.

H3/1

PINK

IGNITION 1 INPUT/OUTPUT

This wire gets connected to the wire in the ignition harness that shows 12volts in both the "start" and "run" position.

H3/2

RED / WHITE

(+) FUSED (30A) FUSED IGNITION 2 /FLEX RELAY INPUT 87

This is the "input" for the flex relay. If needed, you will supply this wire with 12 volts constant.

Basically the flex relay is just a relay that can be programed to function, or "behave" if you will, in one of three ways. It can be programmed to be used as a second starter wire, a second accessory wire, or a second ignition wire. For example, if you're vehicle has two accessory wires that are normally powered up when your vehicle is running, then you'll need program the remote start module to make the flex relay behave as an accessory. By default it's programmed as a second ignition wire.

This wire has other uses if you want to get creative.

H3/3

ORANGE

ACCESSORY OUTPUT

This wire gets connected to the wire in the ignition harness that shows 12volts in the accessory and run positions.

H3/4

VIOLET

STARTER OUTPUT

This wire gets connected to the starter wire in the ignition harness. The starter wire shows 12volts in the start position only.

H3/5

RED

(+) FUSED (30A) IGNITION 1 INPUT

This wire gets connected to 12volts constant. It supplies power for  the H3/1 (PINK) wire when the vehicle is running via remote start.

H3/6

PINK/WHITE

IGNITION 2 / FLEX RELAY OUTPUT 30

This wire gets connected to your second ignition, second accessory, or second starter wire in the igntion harness, whichever you're going to program it for.  

H3/7

PINK/BLACK

FLEX RELAY INPUT 87A key side (if required) of FLEX RELAY

This wire is used when you need to isolate the ignition switch during the remote start operation.

As i understand it, when you start your vehicle with the key, power flows from the ignition switch through the H3/7(Pink/Black) and out the H3/6(Pink/White). Since the flex relay is at rest, contact 87a transfers power to contact 30 of the flex relay. When the vehicle is started with the remote starter then power from the H3/2(RED / White) puts power through to the H3/6(Pink/White).

H3/8

RED / BLACK

(+) FUSED (30A) ACCESSORY/STARTER INPUT

This wire should be connected to 12volts constant to power. It supplies the power for the H3/3(Accessory) and H3/4(Starter Output) wires.

dfitzg 
Member - Posts: 4
Member spacespace
Joined: January 12, 2010
Posted: May 25, 2010 at 4:15 PM / IP Logged  
is the H3/4 wire supposed to show 12 volts at all times ?
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