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2001 infiniti qx4 remote starter


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mysticalp 
Copper - Posts: 63
Copper spacespace
Joined: September 03, 2010
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posted: November 11, 2010 at 5:43 PM / IP Logged  

More questions.....

My glass window hatch, which I am using as my "Trunk Release".  Pin 38 on the QX4 SECU is the Glass Hatch  I have this wire connected to the H1/1 (-) 200mA Trunk Release Output on the viper.  Is this correct or should I have this connected to the H1/7 Blue (-) Trunk Pin/Instant Trigger Input (N/C or N/O) on the viper?  I ask this because the glass release button on the driver door does not work.

Thankyou once again.

Pete
kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,783
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: November 11, 2010 at 9:12 PM / IP Logged  

Does the car start with the key?

Did you test the Hatch Glass Release to see what type of signal it requires?  AudioVox lists a Trunk Release (+) at the Hatch Release Switch.  The Viper Trunk Release at H1/1 is a (-) signal and would require a relay to convert to a (+).

Soldering is fun!
mysticalp 
Copper - Posts: 63
Copper spacespace
Joined: September 03, 2010
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posted: November 11, 2010 at 9:30 PM / IP Logged  

Hello Kreg357,

Thanks for the reply.  I will test the Hatch Glass release.  Is there a special way to hook up the relay to convert it to (+)?

The car is NOT starting with the key.....It just keeps on cranking.....What can I try?  Question.....Is the PKall LED supposed to be lit up?  If so it is not....WHen I went throught the programming sequence the LED flashed accordingly.  It seems to be programmed correct.....

Thanks again...

Pete
kreg357 
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Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: November 11, 2010 at 9:41 PM / IP Logged  

Did you cut any of the cars' ignition wires when you connected the remote starter? 

Double check the PKALL wires going to the cut ignition wire.  (Relay 1a and 1b)

Soldering is fun!
mysticalp 
Copper - Posts: 63
Copper spacespace
Joined: September 03, 2010
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posted: November 12, 2010 at 7:07 AM / IP Logged  

Hello Kreg357

I was trying to send you a visual, but its not letting me upload to the site.  This is what I have checked this far:  The connector at the Ignition Barrel is an 8-pin Connector. 

Pin 1 - 12V Battery

Pin 2 - Ignition (WHITE/ black) - This wire is cut.  The ORANGE / brown wire from the PKALL unit is soldered to the "ignition barrel" side of the connector.  The light/green wire from the PKALL unit is soldered to the "vehicle side" of the WHITE/ black wire. 

Pin 3 - N/A

Pin 4 - Security LED (brown) - This wire is cut.  The brown wire from the PKALL unit is soldered to the "ignition Barrel" side of the connector.  The ORANGE / green wire from the PKALL unit is soldered to the "vehicle side" of the brown wire.

Pin 5 - Gnd

Pin 6 / 7 - N/A

Pin 8 - Data - The data wire from the connector (pink/red) is connected to the PURPLE / white (Data) wire from the PKALL.

I have the (-) While Running (blue/white) wire from the PKALL connected to H2/10 dark blue (-) 200mA Status Output on the Viper.  I have also got the Pink Ignition wire from the PKALL connected to the "Vehicle Side" of the WHITE/ black ignition wire at the Ignition Barrell connector.  (This and the light green relay 1a wire from the PKALL are connected together).  Would this pose a problem?

Thanks. 

Pete
kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,783
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Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: November 12, 2010 at 8:47 AM / IP Logged  
The PKALL connections look OK with the exception of the Pink wire.  I think I would connect that to the H3/1 Pink wire that goes to the cars BLACK/ White Ignition wire.  How are the H3 wires connected to the car?
Soldering is fun!
mysticalp 
Copper - Posts: 63
Copper spacespace
Joined: September 03, 2010
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posted: November 12, 2010 at 10:59 AM / IP Logged  

Hi Kreg357,

Thank-you.  The Ignition Harness at the vehicle is wired as follows along with the (H3) 10 pin connector:

H3/1 (pink) (+) Ignition 1 Input/Output - QX4 pin 3  (+) (BLACK/ white) Ignition @ Ignition Harness

H3/2 (RED / white) (+) Fused 30A Ignition2/Flex Relay Input 87 -  QX4 pin 1 (+) (WHITE/ green) 12V@ Ignition Harness

H3/3 (orange) (+) Accessory Output - QX4 pin 5 (+) (WHITE/ blue) Accessory @ Ignition Harness

H3/4 (violet) (+) Starter Output (car side of starter kill) - QX4 pin 2 (+) (BLACK / YELLOW) Starter @ Ignition Harness

H3/5 (green) (+) Starter Input (keyside of starter kill) - NOT CONNECTED

H3/6 (red) (+) Fused 30A Ignition 1 Input - QX4 pin 1 (+) (WHITE/ green) 12V@ Ignition Harness

H3/7 (pink/white) (+) Ignition 2/Flex relay output - QX4 pin 4 (+) (RED / black) Second Starter @ Ignition Harness

H3/8 (pink/black) (+) Flex Relay Input 87A key side (if req'd) of flex relay - NOT CONNECTED

H3/9 (RED / black) (+) Fused 30A Accessory/Starter Input - QX4 pin 1 (+) (WHITE/ green) 12V@ Ignition Harness

H3/10 N/C - No Connection

QX4 pin 6 (+) (RED / yellow) 2nd Accessory is connected to Relay pin 30

Relay pin 87 & Relay pin 86 is fused and also connected to - QX4 pin 1 (+) (WHITE/ green) 12V@ Ignition Harness

85 - H2/12 Orange (-) 200mA Accessory Output

87a - N/A

The Relay I am using is an Absolute RLS120

  • 12V DC Auto Relay
  • Single Pole Double Throw
  • I think that takes care of the Ignition Harness connection and the H3 Remote Start Connection which I have.  Let me know if anything looks out of the ordinary.  Thank-you for your patience.

    Pete
    kreg357 
    Platinum - Posts: 7,783
    Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
    Joined: January 30, 2009
    Location: Pennsylvania, United States
    Posted: November 12, 2010 at 12:24 PM / IP Logged  
    That looks good, too.  Did you change Menu 3, Menu Item 8 to Option 3? 
    Soldering is fun!
    mysticalp 
    Copper - Posts: 63
    Copper spacespace
    Joined: September 03, 2010
    Location: Ontario, Canada
    Posted: November 12, 2010 at 12:55 PM / IP Logged  

    Hi Kreg357,

    Interesting question!  I have not.  But I'll tell you why and what may be my dilemna.  I am now looking at the Pkall Unit instructions.  Off to the top right of the page it has a little box that indicates: LED Module Diagnostics:

    On: Activated, Off: Not Activated, Flash: Not Programmed

    i have tried programming it a second time.  It does everything that the instructions state however, the LED does NOT stay on.  Is it supposed to? 

     With that being said I have tried to Program the Viper. 

    1. Open the door.  2.  Turn the Ignition on then off.  3.  Press & Hold the Control Button.  (The number of siren chirps indicates the menu number) as it states.....I am not getting anything, no light on the Viper Control Center and no siren chirps.

    I am though able to lock and unlock the doors with the HD remote and the status LED on the control Center flashes.  I am not sure at this point as to why I cannot program the Viper Unit.

    Your help is very much appreciated.

    Thanks.

    Pete.

    Pete
    kreg357 
    Platinum - Posts: 7,783
    Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
    Joined: January 30, 2009
    Location: Pennsylvania, United States
    Posted: November 12, 2010 at 1:32 PM / IP Logged  

    The ACC2 setting shouldn't be a major issue right now.  The fact that the car won't start with the key is.  Any fuses blown?  At this point I would pull the connectors off the PKALL and jumper the two cut wires together with two jumpers to see if the car will start with the key with the PKALL out of the circuit.

    Might be a silly question, but did you connect H1/2 to +12v constant?  Beyond that we might need one of the Viper experts to jump in with some insight.

    Soldering is fun!
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