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viper 5704 / starting issues


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lurch228 
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Joined: August 08, 2012
Posted: October 16, 2012 at 8:33 AM / IP Logged  
If you hav a Factory Remote that works bring it with you and try the unlock with that, then try to start it next time it does it. If it will start with the key after unlocking with the factory remote. Then it's set to option 3 for Factory Disarm Pulse. The BCM will engage the Factory Security with any lock type, even though you are using the Viper remote.
2therock 
Copper - Posts: 66
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Joined: December 06, 2008
Location: Georgia, United States
Posted: October 16, 2012 at 8:50 AM / IP Logged  
I Wish - Thanks, I tried it as soon as I read your post.
So as is right now, the bypass is out, and the fuse pulled, and the vehicle will only start with the Viper remote and key near the Skim.
Thanks.
offroadzj 
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Gold spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: June 03, 2005
Location: New York, United States
Posted: October 16, 2012 at 8:58 AM / IP Logged  
Trace the harness coming off the skim module and make sure that all wires are properly connected and that none are pinched or otherwise not making contact with each other. Then take your DMM and test all of your wires coming off the ignition switch. You may not be getting power to all of the ignition wires with the key.
Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205
lurch228 
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Joined: August 08, 2012
Posted: October 16, 2012 at 9:30 AM / IP Logged  
Then you need to verify that the key switch is sending power to the wires it should be. Sounds like the remote start is sending power to all the wires that need to powered and the key switch isn't. When you check the ign. wires how did they hook into them?
lurch228 
Silver - Posts: 1,338
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Joined: August 08, 2012
Posted: October 16, 2012 at 1:10 PM / IP Logged  
I did a little checking and if you can hold a key next to the Ing./SKIM and start the van with the remote start but no key in coffin, but not the key in the Ing./SKIM then it leads me to belive that the power is not getting to the SKIM to power it up to read the key. When remote started, power is back feeding to the skim and it works. (If you get crank but no run and die = no power to Ing. wire, crank run 2 seconds = no power to SKIM to read key. One of the wires going to the Ing. should have 12+ volts all the time, check the heavy guage wires giong to the switch it's self to verify 12+ volts constant (Blur/RED) coming in and 12+ volt going out too the Ing. wire (Pink/White) The switch routes power depending on key position. If not then need to track it back to the source (ie fuse, BCM)! if you do have 12+ volts on the main feed wire and still no start then the SKIM is not getting power from the Ign. switch. The ignition switch should feed power to the SKIM. If the SKIM was getting power and faulting you would get a security (VTSS LED) on the dash. Just because The Ing./SKIM was good when they put it in doesn't mean it's still good now. The cheapest thing to do is check and rerplace the Ing. electrical switch which is located on the left side of the colum. If I read correctly you gota used colum to fix the damaged one, try replacing the Ing. switch from the other and see if the problem goes away. It's plug and play also if you can try swaping the small wirng off the old colum that goes to the SKIM if you can. If the SKIM was just faulty thr remote start wouldn't work either.
2therock 
Copper - Posts: 66
Copper spacespace
Joined: December 06, 2008
Location: Georgia, United States
Posted: October 16, 2012 at 3:15 PM / IP Logged  
Thanks, Will do all of the above tomorrow.
offroadzj 
Gold - Posts: 2,043
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Joined: June 03, 2005
Location: New York, United States
Posted: October 16, 2012 at 3:17 PM / IP Logged  
If they used t-taps, check to see if the t-taps cut through the any of the ignition wires.
Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205
2therock 
Copper - Posts: 66
Copper spacespace
Joined: December 06, 2008
Location: Georgia, United States
Posted: October 17, 2012 at 7:06 AM / IP Logged  
I'm going to print all this out today and go over it at the Van. I'll need to keep my mind busy after the Job interview I have this AM.
If any of you have the pin-outs for a 2002 grand caravan sport it would be great in helping me confirm them.
I want this fixed obviously and if its not the shops fault or is I want to let them know one way or the other.
I have not expressed any I'll will at them. I did tell them I was disappointed that it came in functioning properly and left not functioning properly.
Helping them can only help any future consumers.
offroadzj 
Gold - Posts: 2,043
Gold spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: June 03, 2005
Location: New York, United States
Posted: October 17, 2012 at 9:02 AM / IP Logged  
Readyremote didn't show anything for that year Grand Caravan, but here is the info for a caravan... it should be the same. Where did they pull the main power from? The ignition fuse is only rated at 10amps and there is a good chance that it is blown. I would try checking it (should be in the underhood fuse box)
12volts   lt blue/red (10A)   +   ignition harness
Starter      yellow      +      ignition harness      
Second Starter      PURPLE / brown      -      ignition harness     
Ignition      pink/white      +      ignition harness      
Second Ignition      N/A    
Third Ignition      N/A    
Accessory      not required for remote start    
Second Accessory      N/A
Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205
2therock 
Copper - Posts: 66
Copper spacespace
Joined: December 06, 2008
Location: Georgia, United States
Posted: October 17, 2012 at 12:58 PM / IP Logged  
Well, I am pretty much distraught.
Basically the van will only start if the Viper remote is used when a key is in the ignition.
I looked at the brain and what a mess. So bad I dare not pull it out to fully look at it in fear of never starting again. No solder like promised. All wire nuts and the squeeze clamps.
I see a 12v relay labeled Install bay.
I got my hands on another clock spring to test in-place of mine. They are both OK in both vehicles.
@ Clock spring:
Blue/red (10A) = Always 12v.
Yellow = 12v when cranked.
PURPLE / Brn = 5.0v always.
Pink/Wht = 12v With key on and while cranking.
@ Skim:
Gray/red= Always 12v.
Blk/Wht = nothing, Ground?
Pink/Wht = 12v Key on and cranking.
WHITE/ Red 1.0v
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