viper 5704 / starting issues

Heh! I drove to a store today and came out withing 2 minutes and tried the key by habit and it cranked. Lose wire or something driving me nuts. OR, he tapped into an ign wire that times out? Kind of like the lights or radio and windows stay hot after the key is off. Geeze

Where is the 12v intput (red) for the viper coming from? If it is NOT coming off the blue/red at the factory harness, is there any indication that it once was? It's possible that they blew the fuse, or the fuse is bad for the ignition. Try checking it (with a DMM, not just visually) and see. Also, next time it is not starting (with the key), hold the key in the start position while wiggling ONE WIRE at a time at the ignition switch. If it all of a sudden cranks, you know your loose wire. If the install is that bad, I would personally rip everything completely out and start from square one... but I would make sure you had a daily vehicle in case you need to do further repair to the factory ignition.Kenny

Owner / Technician

KKD Garage LLC

Albany, NY 12205

Did you verify your getting voltage from the ignition switch to the skim when it won't start. Still think it is higly likely that the ignition switch is the problem, since you had to fix the column from a attempted theft. And it remote starts due to the back feed back powering the skim. I could be wrong but it seems most likely as the cause.

I'm also wondering if they originally had it connected to the 12volt 10amp wire at the switch and when you brought it back for problems they quickly changed it over to take fault off of them for whatever damaged was caused.Kenny

Owner / Technician

KKD Garage LLC

Albany, NY 12205

if you are seeing actual wire nuts then that is definitely a problem because wire nuts should only be used on solid core wire, not stranded wire. at first when i started reading this post my first thought was the car was reading both keys, but now that ive read the whole post i can pretty much say that you have a broken or loose wire at the ignition harness somewhere between the main connector and where the remote starter is connected. a pin may have been pulled loose from the connector by a rough installer or possibly excessive heat melting the plastic around a pin. a simple but not definitive test would be to watch the lights on your instrument cluster while trying to start with the key and trying with the viper. if there is any difference at all in the number or timing of the cluster lights then that tells you that either something is not getting power or its not being turned on at the right time. dodge vehicles around that time tend to have a lot of wires with the same color but power different devices so its also possible that something was crossed up during the install because i know some installers like to cut wires and use butt connectors instead of solder. so possibly some wires were cut and switched around on accident. you might be able to tell if this happened by looking closely at the wires and making sure that the wires are the same size before and after each connection. if there is a noticeable difference in size then there is something wrong, and this type of problem can lead to wires heating up and melting the connectors closest to the bad connection. if i were you i wouldnt go back to that shop because they obviously dont have much experience to begin with or they are more concerned with speed than a proper install.

Did you verify your getting voltage from the ignition switch to the skim when it won't start. Still think it is highly likely that the ignition switch is the problem, since you had to fix the column from a attempted theft. And it remote starts due to the back feed back powering the skim. I could be wrong but it seems most likely as the cause. Yes I did and it is, Thanks ================= Where is the 12v intput (red) for the viper coming from? If it is NOT coming off the blue/red at the factory harness, is there any indication that it once was? It's possible that they blew the fuse, or the fuse is bad for the ignition. Try checking it (with a DMM, not just visually) and see. Also, next time it is not starting (with the key), hold the key in the start position while wiggling ONE WIRE at a time at the ignition switch. If it all of a sudden cranks, you know your loose wire. If the install is that bad, I would personally rip everything completely out and start from square one... but I would make sure you had a daily vehicle in case you need to do further repair to the factory ignition. I checked all my Fuses and they are good. All the wire colors are as shown to me here. Its a real mess under there. depressing. ===================================== I'm also wondering if they originally had it connected to the 12volt 10amp wire at the switch and when you brought it back for problems they quickly changed it over to take fault off of them for whatever damaged was caused. I swapped the clock springs out with another vehicle with no change to both. Both have key sentry. ===================================== Thanks, Before I just find a good shop and do a complete re-install I want to report an new condition. After putting a new coffin with a key inside the car will not remote start with the key in the ignition now. I can hold the remote in my lap and start it. In the AM I will swap the jumper in case the signal is too strong and its seeing two keys. This thing is about to break my will. You guys are great for hanging in here with me. =======================================

FYI for all trying to solve this: From same user 2therock http://dodgeforum.com/forum/dodge-caravan/335906-2002-gc-ignition-key-sentry-replacment-question.html

• 2002 GC Ignition Key Sentry Replacment Question -Had my van broken into and a theft attempt made.
  They ruined my key sentry SKREEM module, key tumbler and the cast housing that holds it.
  I have a used column with the components I need and will pull them off for my Van.
  Question, How is the van's security system going to see this?
  But will the Skeem module toss a curve into the works. The column coming is in tact with a key. Hopefully I will be able to program it to work.
  Just looking ahead of what I am getting iinto.
  FYI, A SKEEM and Key housing are very expensive new. I'm getting the column for $75.00. My interior is blue, the one coming is grey, it was difficult to find one for my config, No radio controls, no traction controls, to name two and more. If push came to shove I can put my wheel and plastics on it but.............. going to try the small parts first.

Not sure I get your point. Yes that's me. I got the column and used the Key tumbler and its cast housing, that's all. I put the tumblers out of my key switch into the key switch that came with the column. The thief drove a screw driver into my OE and broke the cast housing that costs nearly $400.00. I purchased a new Skim because you cannot use one from another VIN. The dealership programmed it. I had it towed up there. The van then remote "and" with the key started with the existing Avatal remote start that was originally in my van fine. I drove it to the install shop to upgrade to a Viper 5701. It drove in remote and key starting. It drove out remote starting only. I assure you if I find out it is somehow my or the thief's fault I will admit to it. But, like I said, it drove in the shop fine.

That dosen't mean that there wasn't some damage to the electric ignition switch. Which driving a screw driver into wouldn't have passed some of that force through to the other side. Which leads me to believe the the swicth is questionable. With the problems you are having as it is working intermintently. So I suggest you start at the source and verify proper function of the switch. IE try to start it with the key if no start. Leave it in the on position and check for voltage to the skim module. If no power try the remote start while watching for power to show up at the skim if it does then back feed is powering it, and not the switch. IE replace the switch!

I understand where you are coming from. The term ignition switch and clock spring are the same thing here. Dodge calls it a clock spring. That has been ruled out. And the test you speak of I have done as posted earlier. Thanks. I'm not so closed minded I am ruling ANYTHING out though. Its looking like a complete removal and reinstall is in my cards though. My wallet bleeds. Oh the pain!