the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
icon

viper 5904 and 2013 toyota tacoma


Post ReplyPost New Topic
< Prev Topic Next Topic >
jmat72 
Member - Posts: 17
Member spacespace
Joined: October 05, 2012
Location: California, United States
Posted: October 18, 2012 at 10:44 PM / IP Logged  
Sorry, last couple of questions on the relays. Do I need them for the parking lights and piezo?
Thanks
kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,783
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: October 19, 2012 at 1:57 AM / IP Logged  

Your Viper Parking Light connection to the trucks Green (-) Parking Light wire at the Headlight switch does not require a relay.  Just remember to set the Vipers' internal jumper/fuse accordingly ( think it comes set to positive, if it didn't shake loose during shipping ).  You wouldn't need a relay if you decided to connect to the trucks' (+) Green Parking Light wire at the fuse box, either.

Not sure what the current draw is on your piezo.  Not sure what the max current rating is on the Vipers' siren output either.  Perhaps another forum member has that Viper info and can jump in.

Soldering is fun!
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: October 19, 2012 at 11:04 AM / IP Logged  
Fuse not shake out during shipping?
Tell me about it.
Factory Siren should be under 1.5 amps, piezo less.
jmat72 
Member - Posts: 17
Member spacespace
Joined: October 05, 2012
Location: California, United States
Posted: October 20, 2012 at 10:58 PM / IP Logged  

Well, just got done with initial install and all wires are correct.  The imi wires on correct on the pdf from xpresskit, they are different from the ones in the link provided above.

I do have a quesiton.  After starting the vehicle, either remote start or with the key, after shutting it off, the engine makes a weird sucking noise, for lack of a better description.  Any ideas?  The truck seems to be fine, it's just right after shut down, it makes a little extra noise, witch I don't think was there before.

I am continuing to test, right now.

Jason

 

jmat72 
Member - Posts: 17
Member spacespace
Joined: October 05, 2012
Location: California, United States
Posted: October 20, 2012 at 10:59 PM / IP Logged  

I mean correct as noted above...  Hopefully I connected them all correctly!

jmat72 
Member - Posts: 17
Member spacespace
Joined: October 05, 2012
Location: California, United States
Posted: October 20, 2012 at 11:51 PM / IP Logged  

Ok, did some more testing.  When the alarm is off and the car is remote started, the doors remain unlocked.  However, if you use the remote to shut down the remote start, the doors LOCK a few seconds after the car shuts off.

I have the ignition lock/unlock set to on in the bit writer menu, but that doesn't seem to work.  I thought that meant the doors lock when the car is startted, perhaps this only works if the 3 pin harness is used?  I didn't use it because I was using the factory arm/disarm. Now that I type this, this makes sense.  However, the doors locking a few seconds after the remote shut down doesn't make sense.  If I press the disarm button on the remote, they unlock and I get the disarm chirp.  I also tried to see if opening the door (had the window opened and unlocked the door) to see if the factory alarm or something would go off and nothing happens.

Last thing I noticed on the remote start is that when I use thre key and turn the ignition on after remote starting, the anti grind works, but the whole truck almost shuts off, it's like it is cutting power to everything like you when you start the car, but it doesn't grind.  I am wondering if this is normal on the Toyota, on my Silverado, when you turn the key, it doesn't do anything.

Regards

jmat72 
Member - Posts: 17
Member spacespace
Joined: October 05, 2012
Location: California, United States
Posted: October 22, 2012 at 12:03 AM / IP Logged  

Ok, just to close the loop on this for anyone out there doing this on a new Tacoma..

The whooshing/sucking noise is normal, it is the smog pump.  Found that on another forum.

For the record, I ended up using the lock/unlock 3 pin harness and connecting it to the factory arm/disarm wires.  I did not use the arm/disarm wires on the Viper or the loc/unlock wires on the truck.  This solved everything.  Truck remains locked when remote started and they now also lock on ignition and unlock when shut off. I did set the alarm up for that.

Thanks for the help.  The hardest part of the whole install is organizing all of the wires and the brain and finding a place to mount everything.  There is not much room under the dash and with the parking brake, there are a lot of moving pieces to avoid.

Jason

imports4life 
Member - Posts: 6
Member spacespace
Joined: October 17, 2012
Posted: October 22, 2012 at 10:20 AM / IP Logged  
jmat72 wrote:

Hi All,

Long time lurker, first time poster.  I have searched and researched literally hours on this and this is what I have come up with.  It’s been a while since I have installed an alarm and I want to make sure I have all of the correct connections.  I am assuming the 2013 is the same as the 2012.

I am installing a Viper 5904 into a 2013 Toyota Tacoma Double Cab, V6, Automatic, with a “G” key.  Can you guys review the wiring I have below and let me know if I’ve got it all correct?  I have some questions regarding which connections require relays and also the PKALL bypass.  I downloaded the instructions for the “G” key, I am a little fuzzy on the Data 2 wire and the keysense.

This post was very helpful, but it does not look like I need to use the keysense wire and the tx/rx for the bypass are in a different location.

https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp~TID~130004

Also, will the WHITE/ red wire at the ignition switch be enough to power all of the relays, including those on the H3 harness?  The wiring diagram I have says that there is another 12v constant at the ignition switch (WHITE/ blue), should I use that for the relays?

From what I gather I will need a total of 3 relays – horn honk, dome light and starter 2.  And perhaps one more each for the parking lights and piezo siren?

Sorry for the long post, thanks in advance to anyone who reads and responds!

Viper 5904 Connections

H1/1 12v Constant – WHITE/ red - ignition switch, white 8 pin plug, pin 5

H1/2 ground - ground
H1/3 (+) siren – positive of siren, will this support a piezo siren as well, or should this be on a relay?
H1/4 Parking light isolation wire – n/a
H1/5 Parking light output (relay?) – green - headlight switch, white 20 pin plug, pin 18 (Set jumper to negative)
H1/6 Ground when Armed – blue/white - PKALL

H2/1 Ignition/Flex Relay Control Output – n/a

H2/2 Neutral Safety Input - ground
H2/3 2nd status – n/a
H2/4 OEM Alarm Disarm Output – GREEN/ black - driver kick, gray 10 pin plug, pin 8, set to double pulse
H2/5 Trunk release – n/a
H2/6 (-) Door Trigger input – GREEN/ YELLOW - dash fuse box, white 18 pin plug (1F), pin 7 (will this work for all 4 doors?)
H2/7 (-) Dome light supervision – relay- blue - dash fuse box, black 13 pin plug (1E), pin 9
H2/8 (-) Horn Honk Output – relay - GREEN/ red - dash fuse box, white 18 pin plug (1C), pin 10
H2/9 Status Output – n/a
H2/10 Ignition 1 output – n/a
H2/11 Aux 3 output - n/a
H2/12 (+) Door trigger input – n/a
H2/13 Aux 1 output - n/a
H2/14 Aux 2 output - n/a
H2/15 Aux 4 output - n/a
H2/16 (+) Brake Shutdown – blue - dash fuse box, white 13 pin plug (1D), pin 13
H2/17 (-) Hood pin input – hood pin
H2/18 (-) Starter output – relay - BLACK/ white - ignition switch, white 8 pin plug, pin 3
H2/19 (-) Trunk Pin – n/a
H2/20 Diesel Wait to start – n/a
H2/21 Turbo Timer – n/a
H2/22 (-) Accessory Output – n/a
H2/23 Tach input - BLACK/ white - data link connector, white 16 pin plug, pin 9
H2/24 (-) OEM Alarm Arm Output – purple - driver kick, gray 10 pin plug, pin 4

H3/1 (+) Ignition 1 - BLACK/ red - ignition switch, white 8 pin plug, pin 6

H3/2 (+) Ignition 2/Flex Relay input – 12v WHITE/ red - white 8 pin plug, pin 5
H3/3 (+) Accessory Output – n/a
H3/4 (+) Starter Output (car side) - GREEN/ black - ignition switch, white 8 pin plug, pin 7
H3/5 (+) Starter Input (Key Side) - GREEN/ black - ignition switch, white 8 pin plug, pin 7
H3/6 (+) Fused Ignition 1 input – 12v WHITE/ red - white 8 pin plug, pin 5
H3/7 (+) Ignition 2/Flex Relay Output - blue / YELLOW - ignition switch, white 8 pin plug, pin 1
H3/8 (+) Flex Relay input – n/a
H3/9 (+) Fused Accessory/Starter Input – 12v WHITE/ red - white 8 pin plug, pin 5
H3/10 – n/a

Door Lock 3 pin connector is not used

PKALL Connections

Connector 1 – D2D – to Viper 5904

Connector 2

PURPLE / White – Data 1 – Light GREEN/ Black- ECM Behind glove box, SPLICE into Pin 20
Yellow/Black – Data 2 – Blue/White - ECM Behind glove box, Cut wire, ECM Side (??)
Blue/White – Ground while running – H1/6 - blue/white Viper
Green – n/a (Keysense??)
Pink – n/a
Black – n/a
 
Connector 3
Light Green – Same connection as yellow/black…(??)
ORANGE / Brown –  Blue/white - ECM Behind glove box, Cut wire, Car Side (??)
ORANGE / Green – n/a
Brown – n/a

Thanks!

Jason

Did you get everything to work right jason? I am using your diagram to make sure i have my connections right. im using the viper 5704 same as yours just without the color display and im also using the pkall bypass as well so this is really helpful to me. Did you need any of the relays you where talking about? If so for which things? Im installing mine into a 2006 toyota/scion tc.
jmat72 
Member - Posts: 17
Member spacespace
Joined: October 05, 2012
Location: California, United States
Posted: October 22, 2012 at 10:25 AM / IP Logged  

Yes, I got everything working correctly, with the changes made in the following posts.  I did use a relay for the horn, starter 2 and the dome light supervision.  I would search around, I don't think the wiring is going to be the same in a Scion tc.

imports4life 
Member - Posts: 6
Member spacespace
Joined: October 17, 2012
Posted: October 22, 2012 at 10:50 AM / IP Logged  
jmat72 wrote:

Yes, I got everything working correctly, with the changes made in the following posts.  I did use a relay for the horn, starter 2 and the dome light supervision.  I would search around, I don't think the wiring is going to be the same in a Scion tc.

starter2 being "H2/18 (-) Starter output – relay - BLACK/ white - ignition switch, white 8 pin plug, pin 3" right? what relay did you use/ what amperage and everything(can be found at radio shack?)? And im changing the wiring diagrams from your truck to my car but i was talking about the layout of where the wires connect to.
Page of 5

  Printable version Printable version Post ReplyPost New Topic
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot create polls in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum

  •  
Search the12volt.com
Follow the12volt.com Follow the12volt.com on Facebook
Tuesday, April 23, 2024 • Copyright © 1999-2024 the12volt.com, All Rights Reserved Privacy Policy & Use of Cookies
Disclaimer: *All information on this site ( the12volt.com ) is provided "as is" without any warranty of any kind, either expressed or implied, including but not limited to fitness for a particular use. Any user assumes the entire risk as to the accuracy and use of this information. Please verify all wire colors and diagrams before applying any information.

Secured by Sectigo
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
Support the12volt.com
Top
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer