2009 camry remote/alarm

Lol, man I was working on this too... Kreg you are the man!

kreg357 Thanks very much for the time you took to check this out, I really do appreciate it,I think ill open er up in the morning and install this and I will definately let you know how it goes :P just one follow up question though yellow (-) parking light output -       black (-) @ headlight switch, white connector I have the auto headlight function on this Camry,as long as I do not use the auto function this won't cause the lights to come on and not go off without disconnecting the battery or should I grab it from the drivers kick panel?

st1nky wrote: kreg357 I have the auto headlight function on this Camry,as long as I do not use the auto function this won't cause the lights to come on and not go off without disconnecting the battery or should I grab it from the drivers kick panel?

You shouldn't have to disconnect the battery for the autolights to turn off. They will function as normal but since there won't be a driver to open the door (which normally shuts off the autolights after the engine is shut off), the autolights will remain on for their timed period after the remote starter has timed out. If you want to stop the autolights from coming on during the remote start, you can use a relay to interrupt the autolights wire -- Green @ headlight switch, white 20 pin plug, pin 19.

Hey Yellow_Cake,  that was definitely a 30 minute question.  A lot of research, etc.  Plus the fact that I don't see that brand in the States.  We did provide good confirmation for the OP.   Soldering is fun!

thanks to you both, I really do appreciate it especially with the holidays and all yellow_cake, When I first bought this car it had a remote starter installed already but in September as it got cooler outside one day after going to work I happened to notice the headlights were on and I had not even turned them on to start with,over the next week 4 more days the same issue,start car WITH KEY, not remote,only tested remote when I bought the car,was no reason to use it in summer here,headlights come on,light switch is off,they stay on all day if I let them. The only way to get them to go off was disconnect the battery for only 2 seconds and then you could start the car all day and no issue with lights. Seems like when it got cold it acted wonky and in the cold is when I need it so on Saturday that week I removed the remote start ground wire and all the next week it was fine,the following Saturday I removed the remote start and its wiring, since then there's no light issue and that is why I was asking about that,I had read something about kick panel wire not having this issue. That remote starter was hooked to positive lights at the switch though so perhaps that was the issue

ok I am downstairs at the workbench doing the pre-install wiring and I have question about diodes,I have read the diode section and think I understand but to be sure white ground out while running -    hooked to relay made for 2nd ign and the imobilizer blue/white wire * diode isolate now when I made the relay I put the quenching diode across the proper pins in the correct direction but I am sort of iffy on the diode for the PKALL ground while running. I positioned it with white bar towards PKALL, is this correct?

So, here is where I am: On the bench i have connected all wires that need to be connected,soldiered,taped and tied, I will not hook up the door pins or trunk pin for now. If the diode thing I asked earlier is correct I can tape that up and I am ready to install it I think.....OH. The priority door function,going with yellow_cake idea brown (-)lock output - purple drivers kick panel white connector   [Use the brown (factory alarm arm) in the same white connecter instead] green (-)unlock output - green driver kick panel " "   " "   [Use the grey (factory alarm disarm) in the same white connecter instead (*be sure to program the unlock to double pulse)] **Both the factory alarm arm & disarm wires will give a reading on the multimeter while the key is being turned into the driver's lock cylinder. so would priority door go to disarm wire as well(grey) ?

Today was bitter cold,no way I was doing it today but I still have those 2 issues,the priority lock,maybe I will just pass on but the diode direction on the "ground when started" for the imobilizer I need confirmed before I start

Soldering is fun!

okay 2 things to clarity. To disable the factory alarm during remote start, you should power the (-) Keysense wire @ the ignition tumbler. For the door locks, you will use the lock/unlock ouputs of the unit, and connect those to the factory alarm wires @ the kick panel. Why use the factory alarm wires at the kick? it allow the door locks to function when the vehicle is running.Ted

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