Activate Truck Bed Lights from Multiple Sources

That'll work. the12volt • Support the12volt.com

Thanks again, the12volt. I'm going to try and find some time to hammer this out this weekend. Will post a follow up next week with some pictures after it's complete. I am also going to be installing Aux backup lights. I want to do it at the same time so I can tuck the entire wire run in the same protective loom. But I am okay with that wiring. Keeping that one very simple. Just a switch and a backup light trigger. Nice and easy peasy.

You're welcome. I look forward to seeing them. the12volt • Support the12volt.com

Well, a wrench was thrown into the plan right out of the gates. That "Pop-Pin" switch I planned to install won't work on my truck. There is no flat mating surface where it can make contact. So the whole idea that I had to wire this to cut power on the ground lead is tossed out the window. So instead of the pop pin, I will simply install a very basic on/off switch in the back of the bed. But I still plan on the other two triggers as well (a Dash Switch & tapping into the light above the rear window). So here is Plan B which involves all 3 triggers to cut power from the hot side: A few Notes about the picture: 1. The Dash switch has red and green indicator lights to represent On/Off. Which is why I am tapping into the fuse slot that only works with key on. 2. Tailgate switch will be a basic On/Off toggle switch with no indicator light, which is why no ground. 3. Do I need any more Diodes on the other triggers, or is the one on the trigger coming from factory light sufficient? (Is that one even necessary?) 4. Lastly, I will take any suggestions if you have a completely different way of setting this up.

Diagram looks fine, but are you sure you have a constant 12V+ lead in the trailer wiring? I'm thinking you'll have to run one from up front. The diode on the factory bed lights lead is to prevent those lights from coming on when either of the other two switches are on. the12volt • Support the12volt.com

the12volt wrote: Diagram looks fine, but are you sure you have a constant 12V+ lead in the trailer wiring? I'm thinking you'll have to run one from up front.

Yup. I considered this. I am hoping I find one (a constant 12V+ lead). If not, I guess I'll have no option but to run another. Which is a shame, because I already built two very neat wire loom runs going along the chassis. One for this project, and one for the Aux reverse lights. If I planned better, I would have had another red wire in this loom.

the12volt wrote: The diode on the factory bed lights lead is to prevent those lights from coming on when either of the other two switches are on.

Yes. That is my understanding, which is why I was quite confident it was needed on the lead in my picture. But if I don't have one on the lead to the dash switch, will it interfere with my little indicator lights on the switch when one of the other 2 triggers are activated?

I can't tell you if it will interfere or not with the dash switch, but it wouldn't be a bad idea to add one. If it does light up with 12V+ just on the output side of the dash switch, you could use it as an indicator if you forgot that you left the rear switch on. the12volt • Support the12volt.com

In the battery junction box (fuse box under the hood), there should be a relay labeled as trailer tow, battery charge. This is the +12V that is available at the 7 pin trailer connector, orange wire. However it is controlled by the ignition switch by said relay. If the relay is removed, and a jumper wire placed between terminals 30 and 87, unswitched power will be available on the wire. Add a fuse inline for the added circuitry (lights) of course.

Ween, Thanks for the contribution to the thread. It's so funny you mentioned this. After the12volt replied to me questioning power at the hitch, I starting digging the depths of the internet. Sure enough, modern day Ford Trucks only supply 12V+ at the 7 pin hitch connection when truck is on. I stumbled across your exact suggestion on one of the Ford Truck Forums. This is a great solution and one I am certainly going to implement. So glad I don't have to make another run to to front. It's getting a little tight routing all these wire looms along the frame rail and into the engine bay. Onto my next question... So far I have only discussed wiring up 3 triggers for my bed lights. But need a little advice regarding the dash switches I will be installing. There will be a total of THREE after market dash switch in my cab: 1. For a grill mounted light bar (already installed and operational) 2. For the reverse lights 3. For the Bed Lights we've been discussing My question is this: Can I power up all three switches jumping from the same fuse tap? Or does each switch need it's own fuse tap? Keep in mind, the power coming from the fuse tap is only to power the switch(es) as all three application are run through a relay. None of these dash switches will be handling the loads on the lights. Here's a quick and dirty diagram of what I am thinking. For clarity and not confuse the picture, I am not showing the grounds. But keep in mind all of these switches have indicator lights so will require a ground. I am aware of that. I am also not labeling the 30, 87 or 85 Posts on the relay. I understand that each relay will have a dedicated fused line direct from a 12V+ source to 30. 87 will run to said new Aux Lights. And 85's gets grounded.

Yes, that will work. the12volt • Support the12volt.com