2009 Hummer H3 Remote Start Review

I didn't connect any tach as I was told the Hummer doesn't need a tach wire.. So I setup the Compustar as tachless.

robertsc wrote: I have always found tachless works best. Exspecially if you want it not to work.

Huh? The Hummer doesn't need the tach.. "no tach is needed as this truck has gm smart stART circuit( you could remove cover to get at injectors but ive never done this on colorado/canyon or h3, same vehicle) and you can set crank time to longest setting with no worries as vehicle will only crank as long as it wants no matter how long your starter does"

In most cases running a tach is the only way to properly install a remote start. But not in this case. It seems unfair to call someone lazy for not doing something that absolutely doesn't need to be done. I have done hundreds of these trucks in tachless without ever having any issues. I should also mention that I will only install remote starts that have a true tachless option (no voltage sense)in these trucks because I don't think voltage sense is reliable.

Robertsc, IMHO the main advantage of running a tach wire is the anti-grind protection inherent in tach mode - cranking stops when the engine starts turning, rather than when a preset crank time elapses. As tbird2340 has correctly pointed out, the H3 has that protection built into it from the factory. The only ways for the starter to grind would be a component failure, or an aftermarket device connected directly to the starter solenoid wire or the crank relay control wire. Obviously no installer with half a brain is going to attempt that because it's stupid and unnecessary. Having said all that, tbird2340, you may want to run a tach wire in anyway, since sometimes it will sense that the car's running in a way that voltage sensing will not. I've had a Scytek piece installed on a Cobalt, which has the same factory anti-grind, and it wouldn't work properly in voltage sensing - would run for 45 seconds and then shut down. I can't speak for that problem's existence on a Compustar or Directed unit, but it's something to be aware of.C Renner's Auto Electronix

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i would run a tach just to double check, i use audiovox sstems and have never ran a tach on h3/colorado/canyon and never had a problem,however on silverados and equinox's ive had to run a tch as it would start and run for a couple minutes, stop AND restart when i ran tachless, your problem doesnt sound tach related but as im unfamiliar with compustar i cant say for certain, i would just run the tach wire(to an uncommon injector wire color) and program for tach and program the tach and see what happens, can you see the injectors without taking off the cover? if not remove cover and connect to an injector wire(uncommon color)

on new gms the way the starter system works it wont let the starter stat engaged too long as the bcm controls starting, you could actually hold the key in the crank position endlessly and once the vehicle starts the bcm ignores the key, you just wouldnt have any accessory circuits on until the key was released and went back to the run position.new fords are the same way and actually on fords, the ford/code system engineers that worked together on the ford remote starts recommend NOT hooking up tach on most of their in house installs, tach might be his problem as i have had certain gms give a start stop restart during remote start in some instances, but doesnt sound like his is trying to restart but again im not familiar with compustars circuitry if it would try to restart as audiovox does

I generally always do run a tach robertsc but when someone with a vast amount of experience tells me it doesn't need one, I tend to trust their opinion.. Especially when I can reproduce what they say (continue cranking after it's running and it doesn't do a dang thing).. That being said.. I will try running a tach but the injectors aren't accessible.. I don't see how I to remove the cover either.. If that doesn't work.. Anyone have any other ideas? Thanks