2006 ford f250 diesel

one other question why do the pictures read 6 cylinder set at 500 rpm for the tach wire when my truck idles at 900 to 1000

That comment (6 cyl) is for a different brand of remote start just ignore it the wire is right. that extra relay for the blue/green wire is for the glow plugs to work. hooking the relay up that way it will only be active when the remote starter is running and the accessory is on from the remote starter. it will not turn on do to the key. i still think that you are in valet mode. if nothing will come on for the remote start the three clicks sound like its trying to flash the parking lights where do you have the unit grounded to not the dash i hope if you do go to the body in the kick panel and scratch off the paint to get a good ground ps if you are trying to test the outputs of the remote starter you can not use the key this will turn everything on and will look good. you need to see what the Remote starter is doing not the key

Sorry for the late reply I am working and trying to fix this. Ok to start with yes I have it grounded to the dash but have a wire ran from the battery which I can make the new ground. The three clicks never blink the lights so I don't know what is up with that. I have the red and black wire with the fuse link in it ran to the brown wire at the light switch as instructed. As for being in valet mode I can press the button for 5 seconds and the red led comes on, I then turn the key off and repeat the process to come out of valet mode. I have also went into program mode and reset everything back to factory default option #23 and tried again but nothing. Everything on the programming menu seems to change with the remote except option #1 this is for tach or tachless. By default it is set for tachless and while in program mode the #1 lock option to change this to tach will not register bit you press the #2 unlock button and you hear it click 2 times. Not sure what's up with that. Also I did find out that I have to have relays for the door locks so that's why they won't work the old system I had the relays were built in so I guess I need to buy some relays unless the old keyless entry can be used with this new system. And if I have not already asked this how do I wire the relay for negative type locks. And I assume 1 relay per lock.

jeepsrcool wrote: The three clicks never blink the lights so I don't know what is up with that. I have the red and black wire with the fuse link in it ran to the brown wire at the light switch as instructed.

Ok i must have the wrong diagram for your remotes starter i show the White wire with the 10 amp fuse on the 12 pin low current plug should go to the brown for the park lights. is this RED / black on the 6 pin or the 12 pin?

jeepsrcool wrote: As for being in valet mode I can press the button for 5 seconds and the red led comes on, I then turn the key off and repeat the process to come out of valet mode. I have also went into program mode and reset everything back to factory default option #23 and tried again but nothing.

Lets get the parking light working so you can see the conformation on the parking lights. then address this problem. does your horn honk the 5 times? to let you know you enter programing?

jeepsrcool wrote: Everything on the programming menu seems to change with the remote except option #1 this is for tach or tachless. By default it is set for tachless and while in program mode the #1 lock option to change this to tach will not register bit you press the #2 unlock button and you hear it click 2 times. Not sure what's up with that.

To switch the tach to option one you have to do this instruction not the programing instructions. TACH PROGRAMMING: 1. Open hood (or ground Gray hood pin wire if no hood pin is installed.) 2. Red White wire should be connected to a valid Tach source. 3. Start engine with key. (Pink wire must be connected!) 4. Press program button 5 times, then wait for 5 light flashes and/or 5 horn honks. 5. Push program button once more. (You must get one light flash and/or honk after button is pressed.) This unit is now at option #1-Tach Learning. 6. Press the #1 Lock Button on remote transmitter. The unit will read the Tach source and flash the lights and or honk once for program confirmation. (On RS1300DP II models without remote transmitters, press the brake pedal in this step.) 7. If lights do not flash for confirmation, then try another tach source or try the tach finder to locate another wire

jeepsrcool wrote: Also I did find out that I have to have relays for the door locks so that's why they won't work the old system I had the relays were built in so I guess I need to buy some relays unless the old keyless entry can be used with this new system. And if I have not already asked this how do I wire the relay for negative type locks. And I assume 1 relay per lock.

i would get something like the 451m off eBay to make it easier for the door locks. (it will have both relays) can get it for 7 dollars. Ebay Listing this will plug directly into you door lock plug on the Main Model. on the 451m doorlock relay plug the 3 pin in to the main module. ground the purple wire, then attach the GREEN/ black to the lock wire of the truck then attach the blue/black to the unlock wire of the truck

The white is a 12volt positive no fuse coming off the 12 pin harness and the red and black is a fused 12v negative coming off the 12 pin harness. The horn works correctly and I will follow the tach programming steps listed here. I assume I need to read tach and also timed start or is it tachless and timed start. Also the tach wire is the green and white wire in the consumer access panel. The tach learning mode will not see this as a valid source but with a DMM set to AC the current runs 2 to 4. Should I be raving the motor during this tach learning process and what is the wait time before trying the program mode again. Thanks for your help.

Also the red and white wire is my tach coming off the 12 pin harness and I assume you mean the pink wire that needs to be hooked up is off the 6 pin high current. The pink wire on the 12 pin low current is 12v positive for the glow plugs and I was told not to use this wire but to set it at 10sec in programming mode and also set the truck for timed crank. If its needed where does it connect.

Yes, they are talking about the pink 6 pin harness i did get that tach learning from the manual i have. you may want to look at yours for the tach programing method. they may have changed from the manual i have it for the rs-4 if you are not doing the right proceduce for the tach it will not work so before you switch the wire make sure by looking in your installation manual that it is being done right. you do not need to use the pink from the 12 pin. check you jumper for the parking light make sure its set to positive not negative, you have positive parking lights. also if that still does not work the fuse might be internal and try the white positive and see if that works for the parking lights how many amp fuse does that RED / black have

I looked at my programming and its the same as yours also the red and black is a 10amp 12 volt positive or ground wire fuse is external and the white wire for the parking lights is positive 10 amps internal fuse but has (+ or-) beside the white wire also.

Crimestopper changed the parking lite circuit with the inception of the R-1, R-2, R-3, Rg4g2 etc series-- the white wire has no fuse in it and is wire to either the positive (+12v) light switch wire, or the negative light switch wire- there are no internal jumper inside brain anymore-- You source the parking light input with the RED / black wire which has the red 10 amp inline fuse in it-- if you are wired into the 12v light switch wire- then source the RED / blk with +12v.  If you are wired into the (-) negative park light wire- then simply ground the RED / blk-  Pretty easy once you understand it--   the RED / blk is an input to brain, not an output- like the white wire--it is confusing, since they moved the inline fuse off the white wire.  Most Rseries kits come with a special note about this in the box with the instructions...

Wire your RED / blk to a constant battery +12v source (I use the R/S feed wire) and hook your white wire to the brown light wire at light switch- and it will work- The brain box has an internal relay to turn on off parking lites- it no longer cares if signal is positive or negative.....

You can also determine valet mode by the fact the red light (external) is always on, not flashing.

Vehicle should crank whether or not a tach signal is seen or programmed-- it just may not start everytime. I always attach tach wire last, after all else has been tested- diesel or not...if you are still not cranking, you are either in valet mode, ---  3 clicks suggest you have brake light (+12v on purple wire)  always on, or gray hood pin wire grounded.  Does your brown wire from R/S put out +12v when it should?  Is your brown wire wired to the proper starter wire that shows +12v only during starter crank with the key?

Brcidd - Engineer That Does Remote Starter Installs on the side.

Thanks for the Clarification brcidd. i do not work with Crimestopper all that much and was using what i could download off there site to help. in the guide i was using indicated 3 flashes was in valet mode it is possible that your brake wire is seeing 12volt all the time. (if you wired to wrong side of switch) should only see 12 volt when brake is pressed. make sure you hood pin is not seeing ground when hood is closed. Thanks again for clarification brcidd