2000 Neon, Viper 5900 sst

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m2736185

Member - Posts: 45

Joined: October 30, 2006

Location: United States

Posted: November 24, 2006 at 5:09 PM / IP Logged

Yes, I believe you are right. The green wire I was testing out for the door harness wasnt the same as the one at the switch. The green wire at the switch is (-) it reads 7.39 V constant, with unlock it reads11.24V and Lock 11.86V. So i guess this is the wire I am looking for. I was unable to find resistors anywhere except radio shack but they didnt have the ones I need... so i ordered 2.7K Ohm 1/2W Carbon Film Resistor (Pack of 100) & 7.5K Ohm 1/2W 5% Carbon Film Resistor (Pack of 100). These should do the job right? So i guess I just solder these to the end of the wire coming from 30 on the relay

m2736185

Member - Posts: 45

Joined: October 30, 2006

Location: United States

Posted: November 26, 2006 at 6:17 PM / IP Logged

Hi,

I need help programming my Viper 5900, after finally contecting all the wires it seems like only the basic alarm functions are working. At first I tried to program it on my own by following the intsructions on the manual, but it was arming without locking so i decided to select channel 14 which automatically resets it to default settings. Now here is my problem. Witht he default setting the lock and arm works the way its suppost to..but unarm/unlock works like this. I press unlock and it unarms I then need to press it twice afer it unarms to unlock. Then there is a prob with the Aux which is suppost to operate the trunk hatch, when i press it and hold down on it it goes into panic mode. Then with the remote start..nothing happens at all. Any suggestions?? thanks

m2736185

Member - Posts: 45

Joined: October 30, 2006

Location: United States

Posted: November 26, 2006 at 10:54 PM / IP Logged

Okay the Trunk pop works, stupid mistake one of the last fuse holders I forgot to put a fuse into. But i still have a prob with the remote start. It is proly because I have a sentry key system...but i had the key in the ignition and still nothing. Also which setting would disarm and unlock with one push of the unlock button?

m2736185

Member - Posts: 45

Joined: October 30, 2006

Location: United States

Posted: November 27, 2006 at 12:20 PM / IP Logged

I checked all fuses and tested all the heavy gauge wires from the satellite relay, they are all good. I probed the (-) starter wire coming from the ribbion harness while pressing the start button and got nothing. Maybe there is somethign wrong with the ribbion harness/port?

Big Dog

Gold - Posts: 1,265

This member consistently provides reliable information

Joined: May 02, 2002

Location: Quebec, Canada

Posted: November 27, 2006 at 3:04 PM / IP Logged

The ribbon harness is all negative out except for the yellow which is positive ignition to the brain when you turn the key to ignition.

Did you program the tach?

Make sure brain sees hood as closed, brake not pressed and that there is a ground signal input on the BLACK/ white neutral safety input wire.

Prepare your future. It wasn't the lack of stones that killed the stone age.

m2736185

Member - Posts: 45

Joined: October 30, 2006

Location: United States

Posted: November 27, 2006 at 3:34 PM / IP Logged

no tach. I thought the hood was the problem so I cut the hood wire just to test it. My car is manual so there is no neutral safety wire.

m2736185

Member - Posts: 45

Joined: October 30, 2006

Location: United States

Posted: November 27, 2006 at 6:42 PM / IP Logged

ah I see, great well the R/S works now I missed the part where the NSS wire needed to be grounded. It grinds for about .2 seconds but i guess it wont do much harm. Now I just seem to have one issue left, my unlock and lock is connected to factory arm and factory rearm. The unlock needs to be set to a double negative pulse but i cant seem to find that option in the features menu...does this mean I will need to connect it to the unlock/lock harness?

m2736185

Member - Posts: 45

Joined: October 30, 2006

Location: United States

Posted: November 28, 2006 at 11:23 PM / IP Logged

Well the easiest part of the installation doesnt seem to be going as planned. I got the DEI 555C, the directions were as easy as can be. Ground the wait to start input and the (-) wire from the chip harness, Insert one key for 8 seconds then the other untill the security lamp comes on which it did. I the took the key out placed the chip 1/2 an inch from the keyhole and pressed the auto start button. The security lamp began to blink then it stayed lite for 3 seconds and beeped like its suppost to...so i assume the chip was programmed. I placed it in every configeration I could, around the key cyclinder,near the imobilizer, near the ribbon harness and still nothing. They car would cut off right after it started. I then tried the key in all different positions and the same thing would happen, the car doesnt even remote start unless the key is in the run position.

Big Dog

Gold - Posts: 1,265

Joined: May 02, 2002

Location: Quebec, Canada

Posted: November 29, 2006 at 9:44 AM / IP Logged

Use this procedure to program your 555C :

https://www.the12volt.com/uploads/files/555C_Alternate%20procedure.pdf

This is because the Neon rerquires a final acc wire which isn't fed during remote start.

Prepare your future. It wasn't the lack of stones that killed the stone age.

m2736185

Member - Posts: 45

Joined: October 30, 2006

Location: United States

Posted: November 29, 2006 at 2:23 PM / IP Logged

I have tried the foil method and the key wouldn program at all. The light would continue to blink slowly. I guess I will try it again. If that doesnt work I guess I can always try jumping the second accessory wire. The instructuions you linked me to states that you reconnect the blue wire to the remote start...dont you only ground this wire during programming process then its dissconnected?

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